[Tucks20s]

I get almost everything I have on my truck off Ebay so be sure to check them.
4/6 or 5/7 Drop
Billet Grille
Tahoe Grille Shell
Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white)
Rollpan
Clear turn signals
smoothed and painted bumper cap
escalade handles
shaved tailgate handle and holes
euro tails

You can drive on factory size tires with a 4/6, but I think ya have to go with a smaller tire a 5/7.

 

[Tucks20s]

Prices where I live are alot cheaper.
4/6 or 5/7 Drop-http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33586&item=2468102138 - $200 to install

Billet Grille http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6763&item=2468814522 $62

Tahoe Grille Shell

Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white $10)

Rollpan $175 for sir mikes, $75 paint

Clear/Euro turn signals http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33717&item=2467488616

smoothed and painted bumper cap- you could get a Tahoe one they're already smoothed out. $200 smoothed & painted or $75 for a Tahoe one painted

escalade handles round $50
shaved tailgate handle and holes $125 also need handle flip kit, $40

euro tails-Well whatever ya prefer I liked my TYC's, but they're about the only euros I like.

Price is also based on quality.

 

[Tucks20s]

I was also quoting my prices at the "higher end" of the spectrum to give him a good idea of a "worst case scenario" as i know he can come out much cheaper

I gotcha That's just the prices I paid to have my stuff shaved and painted when I had my truck white still, not the best work, but at the time I didn't really mind.

Autobahn Wholesale is selling it. I didn't think they sold anything aim, but I looked on their site and they have some stuff by Chassis Tech. I liked my 4/6 DJM kit when I had it. Thought it rode good. All I had was the 4" control arm, 1 leaf taken out of the back, 2" shackle, C-notch, and shocks.

 

[Tucks20s]

A c-notch is pretty easy to install if ya have a grinder, torch, or plasma cutter. You'll also need a drill to drill the holes to bolt it in place. You could also just weld it on. It's harder to lower it with spindles than it is with arms. With arms all you have to do is unbolt the lower control arm and seperate the balljoint from the spindle then bolt the new one back up. A flip kit doesn't take a highschool ed. to install either.

You can get one from Checkmate for $350. It's fiberglass, but not gel coated. The seals are also shitty. It's cheap, but still good quality for their price. If I had my choice I'd go with the one that I asked about in the GP forum.

 

[Tucks20s]

no if you're gonna do a 2/2 leave the suspension stock. If I were you I'd put in a C-notch. If you're afraid of devaluing the truck for when you go to sell it or trade it in then just put it back to factory height with the factory wheels and tires. Most people won't see the notch. With the notch the frame is still just as strong. I'd go 2/4 if you're not going to cut the frame, but I still say a 4/6 to look good. I hate trucks with small drops and 22" wheels or bigger, 99% of the time the look shitty to me. Just my opinion though. Stake Pockets are the holes in your bedrails. Since yours is a stepside all you'd have to do is have a body shop fiberglass them up and smooth the rails out, ofcourse that's easier said than done.

 

[Tucks20s]

That's the front end setup I had on my truck when it was static and although it was on there before I bought the truck I know it's easy to install because I've taken apart my front end a few times. Also rode real well.