Werd! That sounds about right. I guess you better get to ordering a lot of shit! Just imagine it's Christmas!Y2KSierra said:Tahoe Grill shell is all chrome and looks alot cleaner than the standard silverado grill with textured black around it.
As way2hi mentioned:
4/6 or 5/7 Drop - ~600 with shocks + ~300 to install
Billet Grille ~ 100
Tahoe Grille Shell ~ 200 (looks better than standard with billet)
Billet bowtie(or have the OEM painted white)
Rollpan ~ 250 painted
Clear turn signals ~30 off ebay
smoothed and painted bumper cap - no clue on pricing...probably 200-300 with paint.
escalade handles ~70 bucks
shaved tailgate handle and holes ~ 300
euro tails ~ yuck
Looks like you are coming in at $2150, thats under your 2300 budget with all of this :rocking: not to mention your truck would really stand out, even with stock wheels
Werd I'm notching mine this weekend. I'm going to drop the rear to a 7. And I think I'm going to just weld mine in too. I don't want to drill those dam holes!! Cause mine isn't level at all. It also came up just a tad whenever I put the rollpan on and took the bumper, hitch, and spare tire off. I seen reg cab truck today with a 4/8 and it was perfectly level, so a 3/7 should be too. I gotta have something semi-low until I get bags!!! I would go 4 in the front but I will scrub with my tires. I might later on if I need some tires.way2hi said:A c-notch is pretty easy to install if ya have a grinder, torch, or plasma cutter. You'll also need a drill to drill the holes to bolt it in place. You could also just weld it on. It's harder to lower it with spindles than it is with arms. With arms all you have to do is unbolt the lower control arm and seperate the balljoint from the spindle then bolt the new one back up. A flip kit doesn't take a highschool ed. to install either.
You can get one from Checkmate for $350. It's fiberglass, but not gel coated. The seals are also shitty. It's cheap, but still good quality for their price. If I had my choice I'd go with the one that I asked about in the GP forum.
way2hi said:no if you're gonna do a 2/2 leave the suspension stock. If I were you I'd put in a C-notch. If you're afraid of devaluing the truck for when you go to sell it or trade it in then just put it back to factory height with the factory wheels and tires. Most people won't see the notch. With the notch the frame is still just as strong. I'd go 2/4 if you're not going to cut the frame, but I still say a 4/6 to look good. I hate trucks with small drops and 22" wheels or bigger, 99% of the time the look shitty to me. Just my opinion though. Stake Pockets are the holes in your bedrails. Since yours is a stepside all you'd have to do is have a body shop fiberglass them up and smooth the rails out, ofcourse that's easier said than done.
You wouldn't need a step notch for a 4/6. Those are just bigger notches that are used if you're going to bag it. People will usually also cut the bed also when using those. All you need is a reg c-notch. It's just a small notch cut into frame then reinforced just like you said with a brace that is usually bolted on or it can be welded on. Either will work.Tempero said:This entire time I actually have had no idea what we were talking about. I thought a C-Notch was the raised part i see in most lowered truck beds which I now learn is called a step notch. (Correct me if im wrong) So a C-Notch is a notch that is cut into the frame which is reinforced by a brace correct? So then explain to me what exactly a step notch is. From what im reading this seems more and more possible. I may be looking into a 4/6 drop and just keep my factory wheels for now. Help please lol. I know im not the smartest on this stuff so please go easy on me.