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· Jason RIP
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chevyman992002 said:
i just got my checkmate cover on and i'm very happy with it. but don't get it unless you plan on shaving your stake pockets.
I bought the covers they sell, sort of cheesy but they worked ok .. I have bed rails right now, and might paint them and the cover later. One day, the stake pockets will be shaved.
 

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1,676 Posts
no if you're gonna do a 2/2 leave the suspension stock. If I were you I'd put in a C-notch. If you're afraid of devaluing the truck for when you go to sell it or trade it in then just put it back to factory height with the factory wheels and tires. Most people won't see the notch. With the notch the frame is still just as strong. I'd go 2/4 if you're not going to cut the frame, but I still say a 4/6 to look good. I hate trucks with small drops and 22" wheels or bigger, 99% of the time the look shitty to me. Just my opinion though. Stake Pockets are the holes in your bedrails. Since yours is a stepside all you'd have to do is have a body shop fiberglass them up and smooth the rails out, ofcourse that's easier said than done.
 

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way2hi said:
A c-notch is pretty easy to install if ya have a grinder, torch, or plasma cutter. You'll also need a drill to drill the holes to bolt it in place. You could also just weld it on. It's harder to lower it with spindles than it is with arms. With arms all you have to do is unbolt the lower control arm and seperate the balljoint from the spindle then bolt the new one back up. A flip kit doesn't take a highschool ed. to install either.

You can get one from Checkmate for $350. It's fiberglass, but not gel coated. The seals are also shitty. It's cheap, but still good quality for their price. If I had my choice I'd go with the one that I asked about in the GP forum.
Werd I'm notching mine this weekend. I'm going to drop the rear to a 7. And I think I'm going to just weld mine in too. I don't want to drill those dam holes!! Cause mine isn't level at all. It also came up just a tad whenever I put the rollpan on and took the bumper, hitch, and spare tire off. I seen reg cab truck today with a 4/8 and it was perfectly level, so a 3/7 should be too. I gotta have something semi-low until I get bags!!! I would go 4 in the front but I will scrub with my tires. I might later on if I need some tires.
 

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way2hi said:
no if you're gonna do a 2/2 leave the suspension stock. If I were you I'd put in a C-notch. If you're afraid of devaluing the truck for when you go to sell it or trade it in then just put it back to factory height with the factory wheels and tires. Most people won't see the notch. With the notch the frame is still just as strong. I'd go 2/4 if you're not going to cut the frame, but I still say a 4/6 to look good. I hate trucks with small drops and 22" wheels or bigger, 99% of the time the look shitty to me. Just my opinion though. Stake Pockets are the holes in your bedrails. Since yours is a stepside all you'd have to do is have a body shop fiberglass them up and smooth the rails out, ofcourse that's easier said than done.

Werd again! Dude a 2/2 is a joke. way2hi is right. If your going to do that you may as well leave it stock. If you're gonna lower your truck go ahead and drop the right way. I started out with a 3/5 on mine and didn't notch the frame. It will bottom out. Not that bad but it does. You could go with a 3/5 or 3/4 also but if your going with a 3/5 I would go ahead and notch the frame. It'll ride so much better! But even if you go with that in about a week it won't be low to you anymore. That's what happened to me. I'm dropping mine to a 3/7 for until I can get it bagged. I'd go with a 4/6 like way2hi suggested. Trust us!
 

· Burning Rubber
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if your thinking of staying stock for awhile, get some djm or belltech 2" drop shackles for the rear. i got mine for 40 bucks out the door

It should level out the stock "raked" look, and then you can use them later on to level whatever drop you get.


As far as the C-notch goes, don't be a puss... cut the frame(just don't cut where you don't want to) and then bolt the notch in...... your frame will be stronger than it was stock if you do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
This entire time I actually have had no idea what we were talking about. I thought a C-Notch was the raised part i see in most lowered truck beds which I now learn is called a step notch. (Correct me if im wrong) So a C-Notch is a notch that is cut into the frame which is reinforced by a brace correct? So then explain to me what exactly a step notch is. From what im reading this seems more and more possible. I may be looking into a 4/6 drop and just keep my factory wheels for now. Help please lol. I know im not the smartest on this stuff so please go easy on me.
 

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Tempero said:
This entire time I actually have had no idea what we were talking about. I thought a C-Notch was the raised part i see in most lowered truck beds which I now learn is called a step notch. (Correct me if im wrong) So a C-Notch is a notch that is cut into the frame which is reinforced by a brace correct? So then explain to me what exactly a step notch is. From what im reading this seems more and more possible. I may be looking into a 4/6 drop and just keep my factory wheels for now. Help please lol. I know im not the smartest on this stuff so please go easy on me.
You wouldn't need a step notch for a 4/6. Those are just bigger notches that are used if you're going to bag it. People will usually also cut the bed also when using those. All you need is a reg c-notch. It's just a small notch cut into frame then reinforced just like you said with a brace that is usually bolted on or it can be welded on. Either will work.
 

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That's the front end setup I had on my truck when it was static and although it was on there before I bought the truck I know it's easy to install because I've taken apart my front end a few times. Also rode real well.
 
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