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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a set of GK torsion bars on my lowered 1500 due to the added weight of the Duramax, now having trouble figuring out which keys to run to get the ride height where I want it.

The factory green half ton keys are way off. If I put them on the GK bars in the standard position, with the point a little below horizontal, there is no way I could even come close to getting them to load, way too much preload.

I tried putting the green keys clocked one position up, with the point above horizontal pointing up into the crossmember. They were a lot closer this way, but I was still able to get the adjuster bolt to bottom out in the stop with no preload on the bar. It was close, but when I lowered the truck the control arms sagged all the way down til they were resting on the bumpstop.

The factory purple 2500 keys are also clocked too far (too much preload to load) when in the standard position, and they are too far up into the crossmember to even seat the bar when I clock them up one position.

I bought a set of 2" drop keys for a 2500HD from a guy on craigslist thinking this would be the answer. I got them to load, but they are way too tight even without the adjuster bolt installed, just resting on the stop. The nose is about 4" higher than I want it to be:

IMAG0651_zpsuxkms9bm.jpg


Any suggestions on what to try next? I need the front to drop about 4" more than the 2" drop keys that are already in there. I was thinking that a 1500 lift key might work clocked up one position, but I'm not sure.

For reference, here are the three keys that I've tried so far. Green is on the bottom, purple in the middle, and the 2" drop key for the 2500 on top.

IMAG0652_zps4pgnrvza.jpg


Also, here's the green key clocked up one position vs the 2500 lowering key. I need to be somewhere in between these two.


IMAG0653_zpsddbalcwv.jpg
 

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Is a coilover conversion possible? Would be a really heavy spring rate i would assume.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I could do coilovers but I'm trying to keep the cost down. I figured the front end would cost me about $700 to convert. I'm hoping to be in the t-bar swap for about $100 by the time all is said and done. If I keep having to buy parts to experiment with it will eat up the difference pretty quick though, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Found this pic through a google image search, supposed to be a purple key on the bottom, green in the middle, and stock F150 key on top. I wonder if the F150 key would work for me.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks like the on the F150 key you can pretty much draw a straight line through the two point of the hex hole and that lines up with the adjuster screw surface. If I do the same to my pic of the keys here's what I get:

IMAG0653_zpssograaue.jpg
 

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TEAM FUEL MOTORSPORTS
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I knew I recognized that key comparison picture.... :crazy:

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110568

Those black keys up top are actually Rough Country 1/2 ton lift keys... Same as F150 keys though. I think you may be onto something with them and their indexing working for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I stole it from you ;) I got a set of F150 keys and they worked. Drivers side adjuster bolt is maxed out and passenger is out a few turns, but ride height is exactly where i want it. Bars feel great, now I need some better shocks*
 

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TEAM FUEL MOTORSPORTS
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Sweet! :thumbsup:

Glad that worked out for you and you achieved your goal height....
 
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