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Discussion Starter #1
Transfer case was swapped from 246 to 241. The rear output seal continues to drip fluid. What can be done? I thought rotating the rear axle upwards so that under load the axle won't twist downward and "pull" the driveshaft and transfer case downward too and cause the seal to fail. Fwiw, the seal is brand new.

I'm replacing all 4 shocks as well.

Here's pics to show angles.
 

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I could be wrong but it looks like you have regular lift blocks?...Tapered lift blocks would correct the pinon angle of the axle and might even push your shaft forward more..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, they're pretty standard lift blocks. From the superlift lift. What degree shim would you suggest?
 

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Your driveshaft looks way too short
Use an angle finder. Looks like upper joint is cv so set rear pinion at 0(straight at tcase)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Upper joint is CV so set rear pinion at 0?

Sorry, not following, could you explain further?
 

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Look at parentheses.
 

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Ya that shaft looks like it's barely engaged in the Tcase. It looks like you've created a higher angle on your driveshaft by rotating the case up like that, which is why your drive shaft is pulled out so far. Here's a diagram of what dirty black is talking about.

imagejpg2_zps5a1d4e09.jpg
 

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METTALIKATT
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In for answers, mine is similar

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 

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METTALIKATT
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IMG_20140513_141327_444.jpg


You can see it slung fluid all over the bottom of the cab

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 

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Holy hell its time for a new driveshaft! Wow that shortened you alot, im surprised you haven't had more problems than just this. Another option is to get some zerorate blocks which will shift your axle forward a bit to help correct this. However, your rear lift blocks should be tapered, angled lower in the front and higher in the rear, this also helps with said issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ya that shaft looks like it's barely engaged in the Tcase. It looks like you've created a higher angle on your driveshaft by rotating the case up like that, which is why your drive shaft is pulled out so far. Here's a diagram of what dirty lack is talking about.

imagejpg2_zps5a1d4e09.jpg

Okay thanks. You're not saying I need a driveshaft with 2 cv's coming out of the tcase are you?

And you said I rotated my case up. Not sure what you mean. Case isn't clocked or rotated.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I went and measured the driveshaft. It's 37" from where the center do the u joint on each end of the driveshaft.

I actually have a 4 door OBS 4x4 driveshaft and it's 41". Anyone think it would work?

If not, what's easier? Lengthening the shaft I have or shortening the old 4 door one?
 

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shortening the longer shaft would probly be easy.. running the longer shaft will decrease the angle a tad too

It will have to be shortened and balance straight and true.. make sure and take it to someone whose good with shafts :crazy:
 

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Okay thanks. You're not saying I need a driveshaft with 2 cv's coming out of the tcase are you?

And you said I rotated my case up. Not sure what you mean. Case isn't clocked or rotated.
The picture was just for reference on the angle of the axle in relation to your drive shaft. It would be easier to cut a shaft down rather than extend one.
 

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Shortening is cheaper but if the 41 is an oem single/single, id much rather lengthen your cv shaft. Might cost $50 more
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The old one is well... Old. It came from a junkyard, it'll need paint, balancing, shortening, and u joints. It's also noticeable larger in diameter. Any reason or cause for concerns?

Also anyone want to eyeball what degree of shim I will need?

I expect the angle to get worse when I add new shocks. That might lift the back end up a bit more and cause pinion angle to increase.
 

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The old one is well... Old. It came from a junkyard, it'll need paint, balancing, shortening, and u joints. It's also noticeable larger in diameter. Any reason or cause for concerns?

Also anyone want to eyeball what degree of shim I will need?

I expect the angle to get worse when I add new shocks. That might lift the back end up a bit more and cause pinion angle to increase.
shocks wont change a thing
 

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Yea... Im gonna say no to eyeballing a picture for shims.
 

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A) The seal isn't what you need to replace most of the time, it's the bushing in the tail cone. If the bushing is worn, it will wipe out a new seal quickly.

B) You need enough of the slip yoke engaged so you don't wear out the bushings. You're drive shaft is probably too short.

C) Your pinion shouldn't be pointed at your output with that joint arrangement. On the rear shoot for 2* below whatever angle you need to match your driveshaft. Meaning, 2* below pointed at the output for a CV or 2* below parallel with the drivetrain down angle with two single joints.

D) It's cheaper to cut down a driveshaft than make one longer as you need a one piece tube (well, should...some of do what it takes on our toys). If you want to make it longer they will cut out both ends and give you a new tube. To make it shorter they cut off one end, turn the weld off and weld the end on the old cut tube and balance.
 
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