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Discussion Starter #1
I have a JBL 600.1 and 2 12" cvr 124's kickers. I was just wondering what i could do to my amp to make it perform better? I have turned the gain up but should i try anything else?
 

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Wanna B Jack o all Trades
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yeah, turn it back down! you need to match the input gain of the amp to the output of the radio so you dont drive it into clipping. Sounds like you either need a new amp. a new HU, a line driver, or turn up that hearing aid! The gains on an amp arent there for volume controls, they are there to match voltage like I said
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah i still have the stock HU :( Looks like it is time for a new one. I was talking to someone at best buy and they said i will need a dash kit so the HU will fit in it???
 

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Discussion Starter #5
94flamds10blazr said:
yeah, turn it back down! you need to match the input gain of the amp to the output of the radio so you dont drive it into clipping. Sounds like you either need a new amp. a new HU, a line driver, or turn up that hearing aid! The gains on an amp arent there for volume controls, they are there to match voltage like I said
What do you mean drive it into clipping and whats a line driver? Thanks for the help BTW.
 

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Wanna B Jack o all Trades
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ok you do need a 3002 dash kit, a 1858(or GMB02) harness, and a GM02 ant adaptor to make it all work(I work at BB)
Clipping is when you drive an amp past the point where it can amplify the incoming signal. Say the amp you have can amplify at 20:1, meaning do 20x the original signal. The incoming signal peaks at 5 volts, that means that 5x20=100. Now the supply voltage is 12v and the internal power supply can only do 6x or 72volts. You have 28 volts of clipped signal.That means that the signal tops off at 72 volts and stops until the sound drops back below 72 in that sound wave. This means that the speaker actually stops moving in that stroke going out and in! This starts to create an arc on the coil and makes a burn spot that will stop the speaker from working. This is why they say that distortion kills a speaker before power does. You could give a tweeter 1000 watts of ultra clean power or kill it with 45 watts off a HU.
That means that either you need to increase the input voltage to 16.66 volts for the power supply to keep up, or decrease the gain to match.


a line driver is a device that amplifies the signal before the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Subwoofer Mono Amp Specifications

Amplifier Type: Mono
RMS Power: 300W x 1 @ 4 ohms
Bridged RMS Power: 600W x 1 @ 2 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power: 0.1%
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: No
Built-In Crossovers: LP
Bass Boost: 0-6 dB
Frequency Response: 10-320 Hz
Channel Separation: n/a
Signal to Noise Ratio: >100 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps

Those are the specs on my amp.
 

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I do not mean this in an angry/mean way but please let someone who knows what they are doing/listening for adjust your amp. It will be real easy to fry your speakers if you set it wrong. How do you have them wired? Series, parallel? What type head unit are you gonna get? All these questions need to be answered. Also when you buy a head unit run your RCA's from it to the amp for a much improved signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Its been a year since the people installed my system I dont remember if it is a parallel or series. Can i go out and look and tell? How hard is it to install a HU?
 

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SierraRollinDubz said:
Its been a year since the people installed my system I dont remember if it is a parallel or series. Can i go out and look and tell? How hard is it to install a HU?
It's not difficult...but it's not easy either. It is best, if you don't know how...to have a qualified tech do the install. You can't necessarily tell if your subs/speakers are parallelled or in series...unless you have a volt meter hooked up to them and know the resistance of each speaker and the number of voice coils and whether the voice coils are set up in a series or parallel. You can merely take the speakers out of the box and look, but that's a whole new classroom of wiring. I would suggest finding a hometown shop...my preference...because you keep these guys in business and most have been around alot longer than the typical bb or circuit city installer...thus more experience. As for a h/u...if blue lights are all that you require...you definately need the assistance of a pro...no mean to offend...just bluntly stating what is the obvious to ME...

Pat
 

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Wanna B Jack o all Trades
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no real pros or cons except that in series if one sub dies, both die!

The way it works is this, assumming that you have 2 single voice coil subs ,say both are 4 ohm
Series wiring: + from one sub to the - of the other and take the left over + and - and go to the amp. This will make a 8 ohm load mono
The way to figure this out goes like this, where r is the resistance of the sub:
-----R1 x R2
R=----------------
-----R1 + R2
Par wiring: + from each sub to the amp and - from each sub to the amp. This will make a 2 ohm load mono(if you bridged the amp). The math is easy R1 + R2= R
 

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Parallel is how the majority of people will run their set up if A- they have "normal off the shelf speakers" as in a single voice coil and 4 ohm resistance and B- a decent amp capable of a 2 ohm load. The reason behind this is theoretically if you cut the load in half the speakers recieve more power. Note theoretically. There are some other factors also. If all you want is a blue light head unit you need to speak with someone at a reputable shop to help guide you in the right direction. There are lots of blue H/U but what do you want it to do? What features do you want ect. all needs to be addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well most importantly i want a good HU that puts out decent power. It doesnt have to have a blue light, lol. I would be nice if it did though. It doesn't have to be an MP3.
 

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alpine head units are top notch. as far as adjustments go i did this. i set my fronts-6 1/2X1 at 100 high. and i set my rear fill 4X6 plate to 125 high. then i set my low-sub from 100 low. i turned off the sub and set the eq to the front and rear and the sound i wanted. i turned up the radio to 20. then i turned up the gains on front and rear to the level i wanted. which is below static or overpower. i usually ended up with my gains around 3/4 up. then i turned up the sud to match. now everything is clear and sounds good. and i know that 20 is loud and i am not maxing out anything. as far as sub hook ups you need to find out if it is 2 or 4 ohm loads.get someone to look at it and tell you. and figure out if the amp can handle the load. good luck.
 

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Wanna B Jack o all Trades
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actaully what you wanna do is this: get the loudest cd you know that you have, or buy a test cd with some loud songs. Turn your gains all the way down, play the cd, turn the HU all the way up. Turn the gains up to the point where you think it sounds good and its as loud as you ever think it will go. Then adjust them to sound good, matched to each other. That way you never take your radio or amps into distortion, theoritically(sp)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
94flamds10blazr said:
actaully what you wanna do is this: get the loudest cd you know that you have, or buy a test cd with some loud songs. Turn your gains all the way down, play the cd, turn the HU all the way up. Turn the gains up to the point where you think it sounds good and its as loud as you ever think it will go. Then adjust them to sound good, matched to each other. That way you never take your radio or amps into distortion, theoritically(sp)
When you say turn the HU all the way up do you mean turn it up to the loudest point i will ever listen to it or turn it up as loud as it will go? One more question. Should i mess with the bass boost?
 

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Loudest you would ever listen to it. Bass boost is up to you. You loose some clairity as you turn it up. If you can find an Eclipse dealer in your area go see them. They are some of the cleanest h/u out, have a three year waranty, and are also ......blue ...haha!
 
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