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Discussion Starter #1
would this be strong enough for a c-notch? i don't want to cut through the bed. the 2 x 3 tubing would be capped on the ends. the blue is the frame
 

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Seems like a good idea. From an engineering stand point, I would make those interior corners round so it won't try and crack on you. Also, to improve upon that, solid bar would be more suited for that upper peice. Looks good they way you have it though, I'm just always looking to one-up things.

Like dis:
notch.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #4
also would 1-1/2 x 3 x 1/4" wall tubing be to small for across the top?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
gotta(be)low said:
From an engineering stand point, I would make those interior corners round so it won't try and crack on you. QUOTE]

there will be weld where the interior corners are.
 

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Ah ok. I think 1/4 will suffice. Have you thought about making the top portion wider to make it stronger? That's my only concern as far as the weak point in the design.
 

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What size wheels/tires are you planning on running?

You won't lay out very nicely going under the bed. You'll have to cut the support to run that notch anyway won't you? Not to mention the differential will hit the bottom of the bed and flex it up while you are aired out.

Personally when I do a notch i'm going through the bed since i want to lay out nicely :D

Just a suggestion...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Y2KSierra said:
What size wheels/tires are you planning on running?

You won't lay out very nicely going under the bed. You'll have to cut the support to run that notch anyway won't you? Not to mention the differential will hit the bottom of the bed and flex it up while you are aired out.

Personally when I do a notch i'm going through the bed since i want to lay out nicely :D

Just a suggestion...
27" diameter tires for now. i know the differential will hit the bed and i'll have to cut the bed support out. i may cut a hole for the differential and cover it. but it will be plenty low enough for me :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
DemoN said:
i don't think he's talking about the welds, but an actual radiused wall. that could be done by rolling the tube ends and shifting your weld points..... :think: ....but it looks like you'll increase a down force shear at the welds.

i see now with the attached pic. i originally drew it on autocad as you have drawn it but got lazy...more angle cuts. i will do it like that though.
 

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demon do you do calculations or do you use a program?

i am a solidworks mechinal designer (i do the same stuff as our engineers at work but dont have a piece of paper to back my shit)

anyways i have been playing with cosmo's(sp) for some of my equip. designs its a cool program if you know what your doing. of course you have to have 3d solid models

i might model up a frame with a standard notch and see what it looks like just for fun
 

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gotta(be)low said:
Like dis:
notch.gif
The black peice is the frame. That is not drawn to exact dimensions, just drawn to give an idea of what I'm trying to say. My idea was to cut a circular notch in the frame, to elviate the cracking of the sharp corners. The red bar up top represents the top part of the notch.

Here I've revised my idea.

notch2.gif


The general concept is a radiused notch with support. It'd be just like the ones mentioned but radius would make it more resiliant to cracking when the frame flexes. Just tossing out ideas.
 

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this is my notch...i had it kept under the bed..and with a 295/30-22 sized tire the tire bottoms out on the top of the fender well ont he pinch weld before the axle hits the top of the notch..if that makes sense. my frame is about 3/4" of an inch off in the back but i lay in the front. i didnt have any diff problems either.


IMG_0006.jpg
 

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My notches are made out of 2x3 with 1/4" wall. That's plenty beefy enough. They have 7.5" of travel, and an overall height of 10.5". Your notches being even smaller than mine should have no problems at all. You could always do the 2x3 notches, and then go over the outside of the frame with some 3/16" plate to make it extra strong.
 

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gotta(be)low said:
Seems like a good idea. From an engineering stand point, I would make those interior corners round so it won't try and crack on you. Also, to improve upon that, solid bar would be more suited for that upper peice. Looks good they way you have it though, I'm just always looking to one-up things.

Like dis:
notch.gif
That Might work OK if you could find a hydrolic brake to BEND the 1/4 plate steel for the sides and top of the black area. Then place the tube ontop like you have illistrated.

Good luck finding a break like that though. a MAJOR fab shop might have them I know they do make them for big industry.
 
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