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seems like it should be.
gotta(be)low said:From an engineering stand point, I would make those interior corners round so it won't try and crack on you. QUOTE]
there will be weld where the interior corners are.
I agree with this idea.DemoN said:i'd cut it like this
27" diameter tires for now. i know the differential will hit the bed and i'll have to cut the bed support out. i may cut a hole for the differential and cover it. but it will be plenty low enough for meY2KSierra said:What size wheels/tires are you planning on running?
You won't lay out very nicely going under the bed. You'll have to cut the support to run that notch anyway won't you? Not to mention the differential will hit the bottom of the bed and flex it up while you are aired out.
Personally when I do a notch i'm going through the bed since i want to lay out nicely![]()
Just a suggestion...
DemoN said:i don't think he's talking about the welds, but an actual radiused wall. that could be done by rolling the tube ends and shifting your weld points..... :think: ....but it looks like you'll increase a down force shear at the welds.
The black peice is the frame. That is not drawn to exact dimensions, just drawn to give an idea of what I'm trying to say. My idea was to cut a circular notch in the frame, to elviate the cracking of the sharp corners. The red bar up top represents the top part of the notch.gotta(be)low said:Like dis:
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That Might work OK if you could find a hydrolic brake to BEND the 1/4 plate steel for the sides and top of the black area. Then place the tube ontop like you have illistrated.gotta(be)low said:Seems like a good idea. From an engineering stand point, I would make those interior corners round so it won't try and crack on you. Also, to improve upon that, solid bar would be more suited for that upper peice. Looks good they way you have it though, I'm just always looking to one-up things.
Like dis:
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