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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so i have bin looking around at upgrading my IFS components. I found a couple 1 inch uni ball kits and couple heim joint steering compents.
Questions
1. Can you make a 1 inch uni ball fit in the stock control arm, is it strong enough. I Have a Fab shop that can do the work, is that a smart idea, any one try it.

2. Any one make there own heim joint set up for the steering.

THanks
 

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NCOR
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Why would you try and cut and weld in a uniball on the stock upper? Seems more trouble than its worth. Id just build new uppers from 1020 DOM and maybe even replace the rubber bushings with heims.

Building your own heim steering really wouldn't be all that difificult. You just need to make the tie-rod sleeves with some tube and weld in inserts or tap the tubing directly(assuming you source the right size) and then either get some tapered shank bolts or drill the ream out of the knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The uni balls because can get a set up for like 150, and fab stock a arms.

Compared to the 800 uni ball fts ones.
 

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NCOR
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I was meaning it seemed to make more sense to build new arms of your own rather than try and work with the stocks that were made for the stock suspension and to hold a ball joint. I was not saying buying some at $800 made more sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh i see yea thats a option, just thought fabing stock would be the most simple.
 

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Member #66
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arent the stock uprights cast? if so i wouldn't weld to it. my knowledge of welding is very minimal, but ive always heard that there is a very special way to weld to cast, but it's still frowned upon. and word what kyle said about the steering. only problem i see about the steering is the single shear (if you use the stock upright). but if you dont do very severe offroading it shouldn't really be a problem.
 

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GMFS Uber-Member
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Welding cast requires preheating the metal before welding. Can be a pain in the ass, but if done right, you'll get good welds. Unfortunately, most people don't want to go through the trouble so they don't bother even taking on such jobs.
Anyway: I've heard the Uniballs require more attention when off roading cause they're not sealed, so if dirt gets in there and you don't clean it, you're screwed. The heim steering sounds like a good idea though. If you're really unsure about how to go about it, you could always look at a company's and "rip off" how they did it.
Good Luck

Later
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea im about to order all the steering stuff, Im not sure what load rating i should get but seems most compaines dont use more then a 20,000 on there steering. So im going to go with the 40,000 one. Everything going to cost right around $150 with the 40,000 or $100 for the cheaper ones.
 

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NCOR
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40k radial load rating really isn't going make the longevity of the joint a whole lot better. The joint is just going to be harder to damage with shock loading. The bearing surface area and foreign materials are going to play the biggest roles in joint lifetime. You need to grease them well and get some boot covers if possible.

I thought the uppers on the NBS trucks were tube, if they are in fact cast Id ditch that idea completely(more so depending on what type of casting). Sure you can weld to cast with preheat, ni-rod, insulated cooling and then grinding it out and rewelding the nickel to nickel instead of the cast, but I would not use it as one of the main 2 attachment methods for a front corner of a truck. Thats me though.

Single shear attachment points obivously aren't ideal but if you drill out the knuckle and use a larger shank than the wimpy stock tie-rods you'll be fine. As long as you keep the heim as close to the top surface fo the knuckle as possible(read put a HMS in the heim and then bolt that flush to the knuckle) the single shear factor won't affect you all that much. Alot of guys use the OOBS 1 ton GM tie-rods with hydraulic rams and you don't see many tie-rod shanks shear with all that force in single shear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any one have pic of there heim joint set up, The uni ball idea is out too lol.
 

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40k radial load rating really isn't going make the longevity of the joint a whole lot better. The joint is just going to be harder to damage with shock loading. The bearing surface area and foreign materials are going to play the biggest roles in joint lifetime. You need to grease them well and get some boot covers if possible.

I thought the uppers on the NBS trucks were tube, if they are in fact cast Id ditch that idea completely(more so depending on what type of casting). Sure you can weld to cast with preheat, ni-rod, insulated cooling and then grinding it out and rewelding the nickel to nickel instead of the cast, but I would not use it as one of the main 2 attachment methods for a front corner of a truck. Thats me though.

Single shear attachment points obivously aren't ideal but if you drill out the knuckle and use a larger shank than the wimpy stock tie-rods you'll be fine. As long as you keep the heim as close to the top surface fo the knuckle as possible(read put a HMS in the heim and then bolt that flush to the knuckle) the single shear factor won't affect you all that much. Alot of guys use the OOBS 1 ton GM tie-rods with hydraulic rams and you don't see many tie-rod shanks shear with all that force in single shear.

listen to this guy... lol. obviously knows what he's talking about. but quick question man... ive always been told not to grease uniballs or heims, whats the reason u say to do it? (not calling you out or anything, just want some insight)
 

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Ballin' on a Budget
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I've heard that some uniballs are greaseable and others are self-lubricated (some kind of wierd coating i guess). I've heard that the greaseable ones are only better if you actually grease them constantly.
 

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I CANT SPELL GET OVER IT
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Okay so i have bin looking around at upgrading my IFS components. I found a couple 1 inch uni ball kits and couple heim joint steering compents.
Questions
1. Can you make a 1 inch uni ball fit in the stock control arm, is it strong enough. I Have a Fab shop that can do the work, is that a smart idea, any one try it.

2. Any one make there own heim joint set up for the steering.

THanks

COGNITO
 

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NCOR
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listen to this guy... lol. obviously knows what he's talking about. but quick question man... ive always been told not to grease uniballs or heims, whats the reason u say to do it? (not calling you out or anything, just want some insight)
Well the way I phrased it wasn't correct so Ill clarify. Most high end heims have a teflon liner and are self lubricating, however cleaning foreign material from the exposed ball and end periodically is a very good idea, which is what I was trying to get at when I said lubing.

If you actually apply a heavy grease it won't help the joint near at all, I don't want anyone to go out and put wheel bearing grease all over their FK rod ends or something. It will only attract dirt, turn into a lapping compound of sorts and wear it out faster. I have heard of some who spray teflon penetrating lubricant fairly religiously and its something Ill probably do to my JMX14's.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea the Rod Ends im looking at getting are Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar Rod Ends, are rated something like 40,000. I kno you say that will not help, but the hole heim is alot bigger and not that much more so why not spend a little more and get top of line heim. The hole set up going to be right around 150. Cognito said they would sell me the peace to conect to the stock set up for 25 bucks ill probly do that just to make it easer, and faster. But still alot cheaper then 350 or 400.
 
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