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Bowtie love
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 2005 tahoe 4x4 and have been going through it. yesterday was new brake pads and turning rotors if needed. Well the rears are in need of turning but i cannot get them off (both). Been at it for two days. The rust rings are quite rusted and pitted so I believe this is most of my problem along with the flange behind the drum that the studs are attached to. I've generously soaked these spots with penetrant and let it sit over night. I have the parking brake pads backed off and calipers fully removed. I've been pounding around the studs and on the inward braking surface with an 8lb smithing hammer (dont care about surface damage at this point). I even rented a 3 arm puller and had it so tensioned along with hammering that i was sure i'd brake the rotor if i went any tighter. All of this with not a single sign of movement. Again this is both sides.

Am I missing something stupid or is this just a rare case? are there any other tricks i can try to get these off? the rotors are so glossed from heat that they are almost shinier than the chrome wheels and are barely providing any braking. So getting these off is a must.
 

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Premium Member
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2,287 Posts
The parking brake doesn't use pads. It uses shoes inside the rotor.

Is the parking brake on?
If not, try hitting the down on the rotor right where the end of the axle is.. But do not hit the studs.
 

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Bowtie love
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Discussion Starter #3
my mistake yes the parking brake uses shoes, and I have them backed off. The parking brake is not on.

I have hammered on all suitable places around the studs (the face that the wheels sits up against), around the drum, etc.
 

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Wow, sounds like you've already tried most of the usual tricks. It can be pretty frustrating. When I took the front rotors off my wife's Liberty, they were stuck pretty good. I alternated between hammering, penetrating oil around the studs, and heat (small propane torch). Took about an hour to get them both off. Have you tried heat yet? I have heard of people having to cut them off, but have never had to do that myself.
 

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Did you remove the little torx screw from the front of the rotor if it's still there?
 

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Did you remove the little torx screw from the front of the rotor if it's still there?
I think these use little push clips to hold rotors on instead. I may be totally wrong though.
 

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There must be something you're missing, because if they were otherwise free to come off the sledge would have taken care of it. I would make sure those torx screws are off, then hit the top of the rotor perpendicular to the axle with the sledgehammer
 

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cunts
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Put down your purse.
 

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Put down your purse.
Word you have to beat thos things off until the e-brake pad basically breaks. a lot of hammer one side hammer the opposite side. Ah I can smell the brake dust now
 

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Bowtie love
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Discussion Starter #10
Finally i got them off. took two people. had to lay under the car and use a 2' solid steel rod placed against the inner brake surface(with an old pad between them for protection), and then hammered on it with the 8lb smithing hammer i have. would hammer for a bit then turn the rotor. Took another 15-20 minutes per rotor but they finally popped.

in 15 years it was the worst brake job I've ever done. Will definitely be cleaning up the rust ring at the center of the hub to keep from happening again.

Thanks for interest and tips guys.
 
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