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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
LOL stuff has changed. Link setup going to be built.

So far got $800 in axle and ORU kit is sold
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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Smith. I hope this helps you on building your Dana 60

For steering arms I suggest Parts Mike's Springless arm. The cost is fair and it holds preload on the kingpin so much better than shimming the spring. www.partsmike.com

Wheel bearings and Kingpin rebuild kits. Buy all Timken bearings if you can. Actually get with Stephen at A/T Fab as he can get you good prices on the kinpgin rebuilds.

Buy new brakes. If the calipers look good and the piston moves freely and the seals are not dryrot you may be fine, but Calipers are fairly cheap. Brakes are a necessity do not cheap out here. Buy new pads and rotors to ensure you have a good braking system.

I dont know if you plan on wheling this truck, so The carrier choice is up to you if you want a locker or an open carrier up front.

Steering isn't gonna be too bad, I reccomend normal Xover steering like drew has. He has a steering arm on the passenger side knuckle and a Cap on the driverside. All parts from Parts mike. You can actually run a Stock tie-rod and just have a drag link made to fit your lift. You will need another pitman arm that has the proper ream for the TRE you use.

Just post up your questions and we will guide you!
 

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Swamper Brotherhood
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sweet.... Its gunna be nice when complete
 

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holy shit jsut realized this.....your truck and my 94 are nearly identical and were both slingin an axle under em.

granted yours is in alot nicer shape....the general picture is the same.
 

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The Green Seal
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this thread shall produce copious amounts of win
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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The Green Seal
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remind me later and i can get you an exact draglink length measurement

its an easy swap, far easier than installing an IFS lift... just make sure you get your hands on a 90* drill and a couple step bits, they will become your best friends!

curious as to what springs your planning on running?

like Marcus said i'm pretty much in love with my partsmike arms, and id recommend them highly im running the cap on the driver side and the single xover arm on the pass side

i however dont feel you need to buy all new brake shit for the axle from the get go, when i bought my 60 my rotors where plenty thick enough with minimal scaring and the pads where thick as shit so i slapped it all together and have been driving it for over a year with zero problems, there is no need to make an expensive build more expensive "just because" :imo
 

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Bayou Surface Drive, LLC
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Inspect brakes. If you think they will work run them. If not brakes arent that pricy. You can keep your stock shafts and lockouts as you will be fine. Drew's 30 spliners are holding up to a detroit and 38 cut boggers.
 

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GMFS Enforcer
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remind me later and i can get you an exact draglink length measurement
THIS!!!! I need that measurement too. This is reminder, now bust out that tape and post up.:)
 

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The Green Seal
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THIS!!!! I need that measurement too. This is reminder, now bust out that tape and post up.:)
haha hold ya horses! i kinda cant get a measurement when my truck is at my house and im at work :crazy:
 

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WANT LIFT!!!
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Man, I just suck this info up like a sponge. One day I hope to use it all.
 

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The Green Seal
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this!!!! I need that measurement too. This is reminder, now bust out that tape and post up.:)
36.5" TRE shank-TRE shank
 

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GMFS Enforcer
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The Green Seal
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Discussion Starter #20
My parts buying is going to be slow. Being a college kid it with a budget its going to be a while. I almost did have a D60 though. It was local and out of a 79 Ford. Rebuilt with eaton locker and 5.13's. Guy sold it for 800 bucks. It went in 2 days he said.
is that the one i posted up there?
Yeah its the one you posted. Dude was great to deal with and after about 2 weeks of waiting so he could set up a paypal i got the kit in

Smith. I hope this helps you on building your Dana 60

For steering arms I suggest Parts Mike's Springless arm. The cost is fair and it holds preload on the kingpin so much better than shimming the spring. www.partsmike.com

Wheel bearings and Kingpin rebuild kits. Buy all Timken bearings if you can. Actually get with Stephen at A/T Fab as he can get you good prices on the kinpgin rebuilds.

Buy new brakes. If the calipers look good and the piston moves freely and the seals are not dryrot you may be fine, but Calipers are fairly cheap. Brakes are a necessity do not cheap out here. Buy new pads and rotors to ensure you have a good braking system.

I dont know if you plan on wheling this truck, so The carrier choice is up to you if you want a locker or an open carrier up front.

Steering isn't gonna be too bad, I reccomend normal Xover steering like drew has. He has a steering arm on the passenger side knuckle and a Cap on the driverside. All parts from Parts mike. You can actually run a Stock tie-rod and just have a drag link made to fit your lift. You will need another pitman arm that has the proper ream for the TRE you use.

Just post up your questions and we will guide you!
Thanks for the advice. Ive actually been checking on some of the parts that are sold through vendors on pirate but ill definitely check out this site and check with Stephen on stuff as well. I just gotta get a 60 first.

holy shit jsut realized this.....your truck and my 94 are nearly identical and were both slingin an axle under em.

granted yours is in alot nicer shape....the general picture is the same.
Pics? and what do you plan on running spring and tire wise. I'm not sure what im going to run yet. I want to run something with enough space to comfortably run a 39.5 bogger but im going to run my 38.5's until they are bald.
 
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