Well Parts Collecting has begun.....
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2,853 Posts
damn man....why cant i scrap up deals like that. good luck broski
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7,077 Posts
Smith. I hope this helps you on building your Dana 60
For steering arms I suggest Parts Mike's Springless arm. The cost is fair and it holds preload on the kingpin so much better than shimming the spring. www.partsmike.com
Wheel bearings and Kingpin rebuild kits. Buy all Timken bearings if you can. Actually get with Stephen at A/T Fab as he can get you good prices on the kinpgin rebuilds.
Buy new brakes. If the calipers look good and the piston moves freely and the seals are not dryrot you may be fine, but Calipers are fairly cheap. Brakes are a necessity do not cheap out here. Buy new pads and rotors to ensure you have a good braking system.
I dont know if you plan on wheling this truck, so The carrier choice is up to you if you want a locker or an open carrier up front.
Steering isn't gonna be too bad, I reccomend normal Xover steering like drew has. He has a steering arm on the passenger side knuckle and a Cap on the driverside. All parts from Parts mike. You can actually run a Stock tie-rod and just have a drag link made to fit your lift. You will need another pitman arm that has the proper ream for the TRE you use.
Just post up your questions and we will guide you!
For steering arms I suggest Parts Mike's Springless arm. The cost is fair and it holds preload on the kingpin so much better than shimming the spring. www.partsmike.com
Wheel bearings and Kingpin rebuild kits. Buy all Timken bearings if you can. Actually get with Stephen at A/T Fab as he can get you good prices on the kinpgin rebuilds.
Buy new brakes. If the calipers look good and the piston moves freely and the seals are not dryrot you may be fine, but Calipers are fairly cheap. Brakes are a necessity do not cheap out here. Buy new pads and rotors to ensure you have a good braking system.
I dont know if you plan on wheling this truck, so The carrier choice is up to you if you want a locker or an open carrier up front.
Steering isn't gonna be too bad, I reccomend normal Xover steering like drew has. He has a steering arm on the passenger side knuckle and a Cap on the driverside. All parts from Parts mike. You can actually run a Stock tie-rod and just have a drag link made to fit your lift. You will need another pitman arm that has the proper ream for the TRE you use.
Just post up your questions and we will guide you!
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2,853 Posts
holy shit jsut realized this.....your truck and my 94 are nearly identical and were both slingin an axle under em.
granted yours is in alot nicer shape....the general picture is the same.
granted yours is in alot nicer shape....the general picture is the same.
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7,077 Posts
Contribute some Forkin info..
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3,721 Posts
remind me later and i can get you an exact draglink length measurement
its an easy swap, far easier than installing an IFS lift... just make sure you get your hands on a 90* drill and a couple step bits, they will become your best friends!
curious as to what springs your planning on running?
like Marcus said i'm pretty much in love with my partsmike arms, and id recommend them highly im running the cap on the driver side and the single xover arm on the pass side
i however dont feel you need to buy all new brake shit for the axle from the get go, when i bought my 60 my rotors where plenty thick enough with minimal scaring and the pads where thick as shit so i slapped it all together and have been driving it for over a year with zero problems, there is no need to make an expensive build more expensive "just because" :imo
its an easy swap, far easier than installing an IFS lift... just make sure you get your hands on a 90* drill and a couple step bits, they will become your best friends!
curious as to what springs your planning on running?
like Marcus said i'm pretty much in love with my partsmike arms, and id recommend them highly im running the cap on the driver side and the single xover arm on the pass side
i however dont feel you need to buy all new brake shit for the axle from the get go, when i bought my 60 my rotors where plenty thick enough with minimal scaring and the pads where thick as shit so i slapped it all together and have been driving it for over a year with zero problems, there is no need to make an expensive build more expensive "just because" :imo
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3,568 Posts
THIS!!!! I need that measurement too. This is reminder, now bust out that tape and post up.
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haha hold ya horses! i kinda cant get a measurement when my truck is at my house and im at work :crazy:THIS!!!! I need that measurement too. This is reminder, now bust out that tape and post up.
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2,853 Posts
well why the hell not? you should know this kinda stuff already. gaaaah!
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3,721 Posts
36.5" TRE shank-TRE shankthis!!!! I need that measurement too. This is reminder, now bust out that tape and post up.
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3,568 Posts
36.5". Thanks, I perciate it. I will give kudos to you by painting my drag link green.
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3,721 Posts
:rockit:
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692 Posts
You and me both, brother.
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2,152 Posts
My parts buying is going to be slow. Being a college kid it with a budget its going to be a while. I almost did have a D60 though. It was local and out of a 79 Ford. Rebuilt with eaton locker and 5.13's. Guy sold it for 800 bucks. It went in 2 days he said.
Yeah its the one you posted. Dude was great to deal with and after about 2 weeks of waiting so he could set up a paypal i got the kit in
Thanks for the advice. Ive actually been checking on some of the parts that are sold through vendors on pirate but ill definitely check out this site and check with Stephen on stuff as well. I just gotta get a 60 first.
Pics? and what do you plan on running spring and tire wise. I'm not sure what im going to run yet. I want to run something with enough space to comfortably run a 39.5 bogger but im going to run my 38.5's until they are bald.
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