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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, I have been throwing around the idea of picking up a nitrous kit for the truck on the weekend. I have a westers custom tune. I contacted him about the advanced timing and he told me with a wet kit I don't have to worry about a re-tune unless I start going over 100 shot. But if it was a dry kit I would need a re-tune. I know I should trust his word since he did design this tune but I thought I would ask what you guys think. I have a 97 gmc
5.7L, e-fans, headers, exhaust, intake, custom tune, msd wires, and i'm also upgrading my ignition for the nitrous with the msd 6a ignition and msd window switch. I plan on going with the universal N.O.S kit for my application. Anyways let me know if there is anything else I should know, and if I should be worried about not getting a re-tune.
Thanks
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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Get an MSD digital multi-retard box to pull timing on the spray only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got a reply from westers and this is what he had to say.

Your engine has knock sensors, and a very fast computer, and the ability to retard the timing all by itself. In the carburator days (of which everybody still 'quotes'), there was no method of retarding the timing, and no method of adding extra fuel ! If you blow an engine on a 50-75hp shot and it's a wet kit, you probably had it nozzled to a 125-150 shot and forgot to add the fuel. It's recommended to pull 1-2 degrees of timing for every 50HP shot...and your ECM is designed to pull up to 20 degrees of timing when KR is sensed.
I have no problem setting your WOT timing to what you want if you prefer, but it'll always perform like a dog unless you run Nitrous all the time.
Using Nitrous at the track will make you the most inconsistent racer because bottle pressure changes with each run...but it's fun to play with. Most people blow their engines as they want more and more....the 75HP shot limit becomes 100, 125....then 150....then....
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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Or, do what I told you.

Run the 6AL box the have a timing computer pull the timing desired for your nitrous shot as soon as the solenoids ground. I would not want simply the PCM pulling timing. That is asking for trouble.

MSD stuff is cheap as hell used. :imo
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You recommended the digital multi-retard at the start. I did some search on MSD but I find that its a little more then I need. What do you recommend for simply pulling timing for the nitrous. The plan is return the 6a get the 6al, get the msd window switch, and I was looking at the msd start/retard control. Let me know if you think this would work.
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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They have another retard box, it's pretty simple too.

Sounds like you have the setup right. I dunno if I'd spend the money on the window switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was more less going with the window switch for added safety. But its common sence that you only activate it over a certain rpm, and i'm assuming that its more for standards, incase of a missed shift or something like that. It can then come into play and save. Am I understanding this right? So i'm going to say the window switch would not be neccessary.

What is the other retard box called, I can't seem to find it on the site or else i'm just not looking at the right thing. The start retard is kind of useless in my application.

So from what I understand if I go the way I am is when I hit the switch to arm the nitrous, this will also signal the timing retard. So when I hit WOT, the timing will retard and the nitrous will spray. Is this pretty much it?
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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I was more less going with the window switch for added safety. What is the other retard box called, I can't seem to find it on the site or else i'm just not looking at the right thing. The start retard is kind of useless in my application.
So from what I understand if I go the way I am is when I hit the switch to arm the nitrous, this will signal the window switch, which will also signal the timing retard. So when I hit WOT, and i'm between the two rpm's i've selected, the timing will retard and the nitrous will spray. Is this pretty much it?


Retard box? Timing puller?

Yes, that is correct.
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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No sweat. :shake:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another question. I got all my stuff. But my current plugs are ngk plantnium's. Will ngk tr6's work with my set up? I believe there a degree colder plug?
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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How much you going to spray? That will determine your heat range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm going to run 50-75 shot. And I'm not going to be going crazy and sparying every chance I get. More less cruising down the high way and want to feel a little extra get up and go. Or if I make it to the drag strip once or twice a month. Just looking for the right non platnium plug for my set-up.
Thanks
 

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Mayhem, Like Me
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I run TR6's with my 150 wet shot... no problems and I've had at a minimum of 20 bottles through it in the past 14 months or so...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So should I go with the tr6's or just a ngk non platnium plug with stock temp range? And also this mustang in town with his zex kit is trying to tell me that the NOS WOT switch is dangerous and I should look into getting a voltage regualted WOT switch that monitors the throttle positioning senor. What is your thought on this?
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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So should I go with the tr6's or just a ngk non platnium plug with stock temp range? And also this mustang in town with his zex kit is trying to tell me that the NOS WOT switch is dangerous and I should look into getting a voltage regualted WOT switch that monitors the throttle positioning senor. What is your thought on this?


Eh, one heat step cooler is fine.

WOT switches work fine. It's simply a microswitch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
by fine to you mean yah go for it or you would recommend staying with stock temp plugs? I don't plan on hitting it much, at the drag strip, and random hi-way cruises.
 

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HOT AIR BALLOON OWNER
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Oh, yes I'd drop a heat range. Much less and you could run into issues of the plugs not lighting the charge properly on the motor.
 
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