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W.F.O.
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Discussion Starter #1
I think my wheel bearings may be going out on the left front wheel on my 2500HD D-max. I've got a 6inch sus. lift on it which I realize does add extra weight. I replaced the wheel bearings on the front end of the truck when I had it lifted, albeit with only 2000 miles on the truck, just to be safe. When I turn left the wheel is making a crackling noise like something is poping. Anyone got any ideas or experience with wheel bearing failure and signs to look for?
 

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Ben said:
I think my wheel bearings may be going out on the left front wheel on my 2500HD D-max. I've got a 6inch sus. lift on it which I realize does add extra weight. I replaced the wheel bearings on the front end of the truck when I had it lifted, albeit with only 2000 miles on the truck, just to be safe. When I turn left the wheel is making a crackling noise like something is poping. Anyone got any ideas or experience with wheel bearing failure and signs to look for?
Could be a cv going out as well... You can pull the bearings and check the races for discoloration or pitting or anything else not right... Same thing on the rollers.
 

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W.F.O.
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Discussion Starter #3
Problem is, I don't have the tools needed to do the job. I'm going to have to bring the truck to the shop that does the alignment for 4-wheel parts here in Dallas and although they are a reputable shop, I feel as though I would probably help myself and pocket book by being as informed as possible to what may be wrong before hand. Cost almost $700 for the wheel bearing replacement, after labor costs, etc. when I had it done after the lift, not that money is the issue here, I just don't want to have to pay for any extra. Guess I'm pretty much at the mearcy of the shop then.
 

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How much are the tools you need? I've noticed that it is often cheaper to buy the tools and do it yourself than it is to pay someone to do it.
 

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Drive It Like Ya Stole It
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Well teh wheel bearings are not replacable without replacing the entire hub assembly, its a whole sealed unit. To check it, you have to remove everything like your going to take the hub of and see if the hub is eitehr loose, locked up or anything else thats not right. If it is, buy the whole new hub and swap it on. Ive replaced a few, its really not to big of a deal. I would offer to help ya out but im not back up to Dallas until around the 20th, and if memory serves me right (I dont have my list toko look at) im suposed to do a bodylift for you around then as well.
 

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W.F.O.
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Discussion Starter #7
Dark Eternal said:
Well teh wheel bearings are not replacable without replacing the entire hub assembly, its a whole sealed unit. To check it, you have to remove everything like your going to take the hub of and see if the hub is eitehr loose, locked up or anything else thats not right. If it is, buy the whole new hub and swap it on. Ive replaced a few, its really not to big of a deal. I would offer to help ya out but im not back up to Dallas until around the 20th, and if memory serves me right (I dont have my list toko look at) im suposed to do a bodylift for you around then as well.
Yes sir, you are scheduled to install a body lift on my truck, thank's again. I might be able to wait until then to look at it, that is if you don't mind showing me what the hell to do, and if so maybe kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak. I'll see if I can wait that long. I'd would freakin hate to have the bearings go out while I'm cruising down the road, I've heard some horror stories.
 

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I had one hub go out on my lifted HD and the other is on its way out (about 20k miles with the lift and 36x14.5 TSL's). One way to check is to jack the tire off the ground and see if there is any play when you push on the top or bottom of the tire. If the hub is worn, you will feel or even see play in the wheel. If it is solid, then your problem is likely something else.
 

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W.F.O.
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Discussion Starter #9
Jacked my truck up today and there's no slack in the wheel so i ruled out wheel bearings and figure it must be the C.V. shaft. At least that is what I was told it must be by 4-wheel parts if the wheel had no slack side to side, top to bottom. Still not 100% sure though and I think it best to have the C.V. shaft taken off and looked at. It's tough to troubleshoot without actually taking shit apart. Anyhoo, I'll get this figured out sooner or later.
 

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I'd put my money on the CV, they commonly go out, especially when you put alot of power through them (dmax...). I'd say those are easier to diagnose on the vehicle because once you get them off they get all floppy and no stress on them so you can't really reproduce the problem. They're not real tough to replace though.
 

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W.F.O.
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Discussion Starter #11
Sounding more and more like I should just be safe and replace them. Kind of like looking at it as the "cost of having a lift on a IFS", just normal wear and tear associated with it. I do have a question about whether to buy aftermarket or G.M.? The C.V.'s on it are stock and are there better or should I say, more durable C.V. shafts out there? If I'm going to replace them, might as well replace them with the best option out there. Anyone got any input as to the best choice, aftermarket vs. G.M. in this case?
 

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Ben said:
Sounding more and more like I should just be safe and replace them. Kind of like looking at it as the "cost of having a lift on a IFS", just normal wear and tear associated with it. I do have a question about whether to buy aftermarket or G.M.? The C.V.'s on it are stock and are there better or should I say, more durable C.V. shafts out there? If I'm going to replace them, might as well replace them with the best option out there. Anyone got any input as to the best choice, aftermarket vs. G.M. in this case?

You can get replacement ones at Autozone that come with a lifetime warranty. Break it ... Go get another one :read:
 
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