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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Been busy with work the last few weeks so I haven't made much if/any progress. After working LS Fest West this past weekend and shooting some of the #DirtAlliance jump sessions I am beyond motivated to get this truck project going again.

Michael Cox's killer Bronco
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Kibbetech's new truck
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Darren Parsons from Dirt Alliance
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Chris Isenhouer's F100
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Finally got to use this chromoly tubing I bought months ago. I borrowed the tube bender and notcher from work and actually made some progress.

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Feeling confident with the front bumper build I tackled the rear as well. Design wise was up to my wife even though I ended up without the step she asked for. Possibly will add it later.

I reused the factory brackets, just had to cut some holes and trim them back.

You can see the pilot hole for the hole saw.
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A little mock up before bending the ends.

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The front is still stock width so it looks silly with the McNeil fenders.

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I added a couple bars to the front. The middle one being the most obvious. I also added one to the control arm crossmember and a short one that ties the center bar to the middle crossmember.

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Sexually identifies as a shopping cart.
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thats different.
 

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Are you going to add plates to the bumpers or just leave them open? They'd look a lot cleaner with something covering up the undercarriage imo
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Are you going to add plates to the bumpers or just leave them open? They'd look a lot cleaner with something covering up the undercarriage imo
Oh yeah, absolutely! My brother has a 4'x4' sheet of .180w 6061 sitting around. I have access to a brake also so I will try to crease the center to match the center bar angle/bend. I also have dealings with Speedway so I will likely order a sheet of .125w plastic. I'll use this for the valence on either side of the skid plate. I am hoping they can bring it with them to the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville next month so I can save on shipping. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Colored-Plastic-Rolls-10-Ft,1557.html
 
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Oh yeah, absolutely! My brother has a 4'x4' sheet of .180w 6061 sitting around. I have access to a brake also so I will try to crease the center to match the center bar angle/bend. I also have dealings with Speedway so I will likely order a sheet of .125w plastic. I'll use this for the valence on either side of the skid plate. I am hoping they can bring it with them to the Street Rod Nationals in Louisville next month so I can save on shipping. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Colored-Plastic-Rolls-10-Ft,1557.html
That should look pretty clean all said and done, I can't wait to see it done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
With a little persuasion I convinced the wife that the Denali body moldings had to go. I figured removing the double sided tape was going to be the biggest issue. I did a little research and found that 3M makes what is called "Stripe Off Wheel". I removed a couple body pieces last night and messed around with the wheel. Holy crap that thing works. Albeit a little messy. I sprayed the dirty area down with water and wiped it clean. Then used a cordless drill at its slowest setting. It leaves a bit of a residue that is easily wiped off with a damp cloth. Afterwards I used a cleaner wax.

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I didn't care for the factory rear bumper bracket. So I added a few plates to make it stronger.

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Sure wish I could see fgt photobucket pics :mad:

Edit- I can see them now.

Looks good
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I decided to stick with stock length rear control arms for simplicity sake. The bars clear everywhere and thru full travel except when the anti-roll bar is disconnected and the suspension is fully articulated. The upper bar hits the frame slightly. The Johnny Joints are narrower than the mount opening so I had to shim them. I am fairly certain that I can just offset the bars/shims to gain the clearance needed. I ran out of daylight last night so I ended up just installing the stock upper bars again.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I know it's been forever since I've updated the thread. Life gets in the way. Meanwhile the Wife is driving around with stock front suspension and fiberglass fenders. Luckily, she doesn't care. Anyways, finally got the skid plate cut, bent and mounted.







Summer is coming up and I almost have the Lexus driveable again so the time to take the Denali apart to build the front end is approaching fast.
 

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I have been throwing around the idea for years but it’s hard to pull the trigger on a front kit that’s worth more then the truck. Once you are all said in done it’s like 7gs deep
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
So did yo install long travel or nah?
Not yet. In order to do this I need the truck to be down for quite some time. My back up vehicle is currently broke so we're in a holding pattern. I have a buddy with virtually the same vehicle that is willing to let me tear apart and use it for testing. I may go that route if I can't get the back up vehicle back together soon.

The wife's been driving it as is for quite some time now. Luckily, she's patient of the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I picked up some Locked Offroad 2.5" Air bumps at the Leduc Off-Road swap meet. Check out how I mounted them into the frame.

 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
874627


874628


We finally mounted some tires on the KMC Machette single beadlock wheels. The truck fills out the front fenders a lot better with these. 17x9 (I believe 0 offset)

Once again this project just keeps getting put on the back burner. Well, unfortunately, this time it's fate is uncertain. Since I last posted we have broken a driver side axle, broken another driver side hub, and most recently broken a passenger side hub. Each time this **** happens, I basically replace everything up front. This hub that just broke had maybe 1000 miles on it. This time we were lucky it was only at 20 or so mph. It ripped the caliper off the knuckle, broke the spindle and the wheel landed under the truck. The Wife did a great job of keeping her composure and got the truck off the side of the road with the wheel/tire as a crutch.


Note the tire wear in roughly 1000 miles
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Needless to say, something is clearly not happy with the front end right now. I gave up and just ordered a 4" lift for it hoping to correct CV angles(which is where I believe the problem lies). This was after extensive searching for a 1500 diff drop. Quite honestly, reading the internets for such products is quite interesting. Comment after comment about how the upper ball joints fail and the CV angle is fine after blah blah blah amount miles. Ball joints have never been a problem for me, just these damn axles and hubs. To add to my confusion there are diff drop kits for 2500's all over the place.

I still have the NNBS axles I bought years ago sitting in a box in the garage. Again, with the hopes of making custom arms roughly 2" wider. The 4" lift currently on order is not where I wanted this truck to be but I am backed into a corner. This is my Wife's daily driver and she loves the truck but I can't in good conscious let her drive it this way anymore. With my back up car also not drivable this has left us with one vehicle.

During this time (covid) parts availability has been an issue so the lift kit delivery date just keeps getting pushed back. In the meantime we looked and found an '02 2500 Suburban 6.0 in good mechanical condition, with great paint but the interior was thrashed. So we found a couple donor vehicles and made it super nice inside as well.

With the pressure off my shoulders now I can focus on the Yukon. I think now the Yukon will go to my Son (currently only 13 years old). Call it a project I guess but he loves the Yukon also but it damn well better be safe.

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The Suburban is now going to open up a whole new can of worms. The Wife is already looking at a cat eye conversion for it. I'm just over here trying to figure out how to get 15" of travel out of it. For those wondering, this truck is 2wd.

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