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Discussion Starter #1
My front passenger wheel bearings are starting to make a lot of racket on my 2006 crew cab. I only have about 40,000 miles, but I hear these are not very good units. Regardless, I probably have a couple of weeks at the most on this one before I need a replacement. My question is where should I buy my replacement for the best price/quality/longevity. Obviously the factory unit did not hold up to stock wheels and tires and on road driving.:dunno: Thanks.
 

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check your bolts :crazy: .... Vatozone has TIMKEN units for like 140 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
check your bolts :crazy: .... Vatozone has TIMKEN units for like 140 or so.
yeah the bolts have never been messed with haha, I read your thread just before posting this one. Are timken units good? I saw the new dealer OE part on acdelco or something for like 506 dollars which is ridiculous, especially considering i've only gotten like 40k miles out of it. Who else is out there? NAPA?
 

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Timken makes quality stuff. Usually the Yukon master install kit comes with timken bearing for diff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
http://rockauto.com/ ...if you can wait for it to ship, they seem to have the best prices around.
Yeah, well its just starting to squeak/have a very small (like 1/32" play) so i figure I have a couple of weeks. It just means I'll ride my bike to class more! Is there any differentiation between the bearings/years they fit. Depending on the site I look at, there are some that specifically say they don't fit crew cabs, then others that just like the years such as 99-2007 classic or whatever. Is there any difference in these hubs/how they mount up?
 

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Yeah, well its just starting to squeak/have a very small (like 1/32" play) so i figure I have a couple of weeks. It just means I'll ride my bike to class more! Is there any differentiation between the bearings/years they fit. Depending on the site I look at, there are some that specifically say they don't fit crew cabs, then others that just like the years such as 99-2007 classic or whatever. Is there any difference in these hubs/how they mount up?

shit...I have no idea, man. I just know rockauto.com has the best prices you can get online.

YMMV.

Best of luck on the repair, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
shit...I have no idea, man. I just know rockauto.com has the best prices you can get online.

YMMV.

Best of luck on the repair, though.
Thanks, and I appreciate the link, they definitely beat any price I've found so far by about 30 bucks. I just cannot come to understand how an OE hub would be as garbage as this one is, I am not even to 40k and I don't beat up or drive my truck offroad except when totally necessary. I guess its convenient that I'm out of warranty now too.:biggun:
 

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Yeah...I can't answer that question.

But I'd say that if I could get Timken bearing OTC, I'd be happy with the buy. Timken has alway been quality goods, AFAIK, and I wouldn't hesitate to put Timken on my truck.
 

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i bought mine on ebay last year for $250 for borth hub ,spindles,rotors,calipers. all brand new from an auto recycling. NORDSTROM parts or something.:)
 

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I just replace a wheel bearing, with 74K miles. 40K seems low, but not impossible. Now, that doesn't mean they will go out in another 40K. Some people's tranny's last 150K, others only last 35K (ask member Paul about that one).
 

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haz 12"s!
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Timken makes quality stuff. Usually the Yukon master install kit comes with timken bearing for diff
As does Genuine Gears' ;)

I have both from Autozone. Too bad they are all only 1 year warranty. Ive had mine on for ~40k lifted miles and no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As does Genuine Gears' ;)

I have both from Autozone. Too bad they are all only 1 year warranty. Ive had mine on for ~40k lifted miles and no problems.
looks like I may be getting the autozone piece. They have an option for heavy duty brakes, and that is the only difference, I don't think I do, but how can I know for sure whether I have the HD brakes or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does anyone have a write up on how to do this, I understand there are two bolts that hold the caliper on and then three that hold the hub to the spindle. How does the rotor come off of the hub, does it just slide free once the caliper is out of the way? Any info is appreciated, and any tricks. It looks like I'll be doing this in the next day or two, its really starting to get worse quickly.
 

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There should be a torx bolt hold the rotor in place. I did mine last :crazy: Your are 2WD correct? Then you dont have to remove the Axle shafts. I believe if you search Wheel Hub Assembly, youll find a write up. I did last night.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got it fixed today at the dealership through the extended warranty. I remembered we'd bought it, so I figured I may as well make good use of it. While they were in there, they replaced an inner tie rod also, which I didn't know about (It was clunking and i thought it was the ISS) now is good to go so I was glad I brought it there. Hopefully the new piece will last longer than 40k
 

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well that took an unexpected turn!
Can't forget about that extended warranty, man!

I was going to say, I got the AC Delco from Rock Auto. My factory OE hubs went no problems for 140,000+
We'll see how the new ones do with heavily offset wheels! fingers crossed.
 
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