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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know this amp is capable of a bridged 800w @ 1ohm, but how do I achieve that? I have my dual 4ohm comp vr's wired at a 1ohm load but the amp only has the harness plug on the side of the amp :think:
how do i bridge it? :think:
 

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Snooby Doo
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the specs on the amp..

2 x 50W @ 4 ohms
2 x 100W @ 2 ohms
2 x 400 @ ½ ohm
1 x 800 @ 1 ohm bridged
THD: 0.03%
S/N Ratio: 110dB
Freq. Response: 6Hz ∼ 30kHz (±0.5dB)
Fuse: External 45A
Dimensions: 17" x 8.5" x 2.25" (43.2cm x 21.6cm x 5.7cm)





i have no idea, what goes in that large square plug?
 

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Fa Kin Su Pah
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im going to assume theres a plug missing that you would hook your speaker wires into and your remote turn on
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no, i have the plug... its all wired up but i knwo its not putting out the capable 800 watts.
after playing with it now, i noticed the gain is kinda screwy, if you press on it in certain ways the subs really start to pound.
somethin is loose :(
 

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I don't own a lowrider
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I have the same amp. It used to slam in my old car on 3 JL 10W6s. The amp shut off one day and never came back on. The power light comes on but nothing happens. Any idea what could be wrong with it?
 

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I have the same amp. It used to slam in my old car on 3 JL 10W6s. The amp shut off one day and never came back on. The power light comes on but nothing happens. Any idea what could be wrong with it?
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i used these amps alot several years ago and when they are used at 1 ohm or lower they tend to do 1 of 2 things. 1) create bad solder connections due to extreme heat or 2) burns up the power supply inside of the amp
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after playing with it now, i noticed the gain is kinda screwy, if you press on it in certain ways the subs really start to pound.

as for this you may want to take the bottom cover of the amp off and look at the solder connections at the gain control and depending on your solderink skills resolder the terminals, sounds like they have bad connections at the board. another small problem that you will have is that if you run all the voice coils in parrallel your thoughts and ohm meter will show 1 ohm however when you bridge a stereo amp the amp will really see 1/2 the measured resistance which will be 1/2 ohm. this amp will not play for long at high volumes for any length of time because it will get VERY HOT and go into protect mode. these amps are great for spl contest because all youre doing is burping the amp for a short time. yes you can put fans on it but if the amp is playing hard then this is just a band aid. i like massive power at 2 ohm for street listening. need to get back to work.
 

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ps i believe that in order to bridge the amp you will use the yellow and orange speaker leads. trying to recall which is positive but even not knowing which is positive you will be able to tell by watching the speakers while playing ( not at loud volume). you will watch the subs if the movement is inward you switch the leads around and they will now be in phase. in phase movement will will be an outward motion. hope this helps some
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i guess my gain control is fucked, theres a local shop here that i will take it to and see what they say :(
 

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a "cheater amp" is normally used in spl competition because at 4 ohms it may be rated at say 50 - 100 watts. in competition you are competing in wattage classes. therefore if you have and amp rated at 100 watts at 4 ohms and the power supply in the amp can handle a much lower ohmage it will produce more wattage at 1 or 1/2 ohm. people in general will use one of these to power several subs so you have more cone area moving producing more spl. however some judges are on to this and will meter your amps with a sine wave and let you know that you need to be in a different power class. hope this helps a little
 
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