[Phildirt]

I mean you might as well eliminate that factor since you can. How do your cv’s look? I started thinking mine are jacked but Googled a ton of images on the 6” RC lift with torsion bars and I think they are probably fine. Just hard to tell with the coilovers since I can’t tell if it’s “cranked” or not.

 

[hetzler_l33]

Once you add in the safety factor I think it’s a good upgrade. Sucks when wheels fall off.

So true, my buddy had this happen but he was an idiot because they were creaking bad and he was not in a hurry to replace them. Ball joint popped going down the road

 

[ferraiolo1]

Kachow mod


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[hetzler_l33]

I mean you might as well eliminate that factor since you can. How do your cv’s look? I started thinking mine are jacked but Googled a ton of images on the 6” RC lift with torsion bars and I think they are probably fine. Just hard to tell with the coilovers since I can’t tell if it’s “cranked” or not.

Yeah safety isn’t a concern because I stay on top of things but my CVs aren’t great. Now they aren’t that bad either. I still have stock CV axles and they have no play in them with the boots still intact so I imagine their angle is sufficient.

The lower ball joints look OK but the upper ones are more on the extreme side and I think the truck is only at a 2.5” level

 

[hetzler_l33]

Don’t mean to steal the thread but this is how mine sits as of now, sorry for the bad pics since it’s raining here.

You can see the angle of everything and yeah it looks like an awful angle for the CVs

Upper ball joint angle

Lower ball joint angle

The lower looks fine but the upper looks kinda extreme to me, just thought that would give you a better picture Phildirt

 

[ferraiolo1]

Jesus. You have zero down travel and a not very good cv angle. UCAs and a diff drop would prolong the life of your front end.


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[hetzler_l33]

Jesus. You have zero down travel and a not very good cv angle. UCAs and a diff drop would prolong the life of your front end.


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That’s why I’m looking at the Cognito UCAs, but if I do a diff drop then the front driveshaft won’t be flat anymore.

That’s only a 2.5” level though and it looks like a 3” if I compare it to a truck with one based on angles and what not.

 

[2500hdon37s]

That’s why I’m looking at the Cognito UCAs, but if I do a diff drop then the front driveshaft won’t be flat anymore.

That’s only a 2.5” level though and it looks like a 3” if I compare it to a truck with one based on angles and what not.

you dont need to worry about the front driveshaft if you only drop the diff and inch or two. Most people with 6in lifts have their diffs dropped 4-6in and still use the OEM front drive shafts, U-joints can handle a fair bit of angle and they tend to hold up rather well.

 

[ferraiolo1]

I used a 1in drop on both my trucks to help the cv angles with the more down travel the better ucas give you. I never had any issues with vibrations.


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[hetzler_l33]

Alright that’s good to hear. I’ve heard of vibrations after people drop their diff so I was skeptical but I wasn’t sure if a couple inches would have the same result or not.

Thanks for the help guys, I’ll probably get the UCAs and a diff drop to help with the angles. Who makes a decent diff drop I can get?

 

[ferraiolo1]

I know on the newer trucks some vibrations come from when the installer doesn’t trim enough off the diff and it rubs on the cross member.


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[KennyR]

Unless u have the early auto trac transfer case, your driveline should only spin in 4x4. Someone correct me.lol

 

[ferraiolo1]

Yes, but if going at higher speeds in 4wd or auto is when you would feel vibrations.


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[hetzler_l33]

I know on the newer trucks some vibrations come from when the installer doesn’t trim enough off the diff and it rubs on the cross member.


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Gotcha, I don’t think I’ll have to trim anything on mine but who knows. I’ll do some searching and see what I can find.

Unless u have the early auto trac transfer case, your driveline should only spin in 4x4. Someone correct me.lol

You’re correct AFAIK, but I’d rather not have another vibration even if it’s only in 4wd lol

 

[numbr3t]

I recently put Cognito UCAs on my ‘09 Sierra 1500 that has a 2.5in TGC leveling kit on and 33x12.50r20 Toyo MTs mounted on OEM wheels. I have 1.5 inch spacers and everything clears just fine. My truck had 100k on it when I did the install. I would do it again in a heartbeat. It increased the droop travel without hitting the stops like it did with the OEM UCAs. They are pricey but it’s needed imo.


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[Phildirt]

Don’t mean to steal the thread but this is how mine sits as of now, sorry for the bad pics since it’s raining here.

You can see the angle of everything and yeah it looks like an awful angle for the CVs

Upper ball joint angle

Lower ball joint angle

The lower looks fine but the upper looks kinda extreme to me, just thought that would give you a better picture Phildirt

I thought you converted to coilovers..? Did we talk about it at one point?

 

[Phildirt]

Unless u have the early auto trac transfer case, your driveline should only spin in 4x4. Someone correct me.lol

Or a full time 2 speed Borg Warner like my 05 Burb

But you’re thinking of awd like a Denali.

 

[Phildirt]

I used a 1in drop on both my trucks to help the cv angles with the more down travel the better ucas give you. I never had any issues with vibrations.


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No such option for NBS.

 

[hetzler_l33]

I thought you converted to coilovers..? Did we talk about it at one point?

I did, but I had to take them off because the pucks were starting to “press” on the top retaining seat or whatever you call it and it kept throwing my alignment out.

But the ride height I had put the UCAs on the droop stops which made the bumps awful and the upper ball joint was scary as hell. I think I damaged the joints with that because they’re a little loose now.

You can see how the right one is “pressed” on and that was the driver’s side. The passenger side was starting to do the same thing. I’m assuming the stud top mount had something to do with it also.

The puck is still on the driver’s side shock because I couldn’t get it off.

 

[Phildirt]

I did, but I had to take them off because the pucks were starting to “press” on the top retaining seat or whatever you call it and it kept throwing my alignment out.

But the ride height I had put the UCAs on the droop stops which made the bumps awful and the upper ball joint was scary as hell. I think I damaged the joints with that because they’re a little loose now.

You can see how the right one is “pressed” on and that was the driver’s side. The passenger side was starting to do the same thing. I’m assuming the stud top mount had something to do with it also.

The puck is still on the driver’s side shock because I couldn’t get it off.

You need the upper brackets.