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4.1K views 44 replies 15 participants last post by  MtotheIKEo  
#1 ·
Well I roasted my cheapo black and decker drill today. Like it caught on fire :nono:


No way can I steal my dads milwalkee at home, he would kill me. So its time for a new drill. This thing is 99% of the time used for drilling through metal (frames on trucks etc..)

what do you all think. Power is very important.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tylertool/mi101mavsrdd.html

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tylertool/mi021vsrmadr.html

D handle or not? What one you think will have more power? I know the d-handle has less amps but I think its geared down more for more power.

Any other sugestions?
 
#6 ·
How about pneumatic? (enough air is important for it to be viable)

My dad has this at the shop and is happy with it.
http://www.mactools.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ItemNum=AD590

Or an IR 400RPM/.5 HP should be really torquey
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IR-7803R.html

Knock off brand 500RPM/.5HP (might be the manufacturer of the mac one, looks pretty similiar with the reverse switch and all)
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/AP-527C.html

Regarding the ones you posted, I would guess the "D" has more power. Any 1/2 in drill has a significant gear reduction. The lower amperage may be due to more reduction like you said. We have an old WWII 1/2 that I put a pipe on the handle so it doesn't take my arm off at home (the handle on that thing is a 6" pipe threaded into the housing). The problem is it weighs like 25 pounds. You should look for something like that.
 
W
#7 ·
Get the 2nd one. I've been very hard on mine and it keep's on truckin. I'm not a fan of d-handle drills... Also, watch out for the heavy gear reduction drills, if they catch on something they will rip your arm, face, leg, etc off. I watched a guy using a Mil Hole Hawg get thrown off a 3 story roof when drilling a hole for a vent line and snagged a nail... I hate to see the drill wip around and nail you in the head :nono:

I prefer a variable speed but higher geared drill for this reason.
 
#9 ·
jebx said:
Or an IR 400RPM/.5 HP should be really torquey
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IR-7803R.html
Click to expand...
hehe, i have that drill. if the bit stops the drill, and you, keep going if you don't release the trigger. it's got tons of torque but i hope you have some strong arms because nothing will stop it.

i bought a craftsman 19.2V cordless and there's not much it can't drill through in low range. it gets used every day in the shop, drilling steel, aluminum, etc. i drilled a bunch of 9/32 holes though 3/8 mild steel today, it worked like a champ. if you do this all day sooner or later you're going to need to switch batteries but the convenience can't be beat. it all but replaced my air drill. worth considering for 99 bucks. i tell you this thing takes a beating.
 
#10 ·
willyswanter said:
Get the 2nd one. I've been very hard on mine and it keep's on truckin. I'm not a fan of d-handle drills... Also, watch out for the heavy gear reduction drills, if they catch on something they will rip your arm, face, leg, etc off. I watched a guy using a Mil Hole Hawg get thrown off a 3 story roof when drilling a hole for a vent line and snagged a nail... I hate to see the drill wip around and nail you in the head :nono:

I prefer a variable speed but higher geared drill for this reason.
Click to expand...
I dont mind the torque, in fact I like it. More arm ripping off power the better, means I can push it through metal that much faster.

As soon as I get cash ill probably see what they have at the local sears or something. Just dont know about the d-handle.
 
W
#12 ·
The power is useless in metal pretty much since you are limited by your drill, not your drill motor... If you actually calculated it out you should be turning your drill bits alot slower than full on and applying alot of pressure... Reason I always see everyone burn up their drill bits is running at full speed on the drill motor. Always remember cutting oil too.
 
#13 ·
no I do that. I dont run full speed and put all my weight into it. My current drill I could not do that or it would flat out bind up and stop. I was drilling out a rivet today and after about a minute of drillign it caught on fire. Was not going fast at all!
 
#16 ·
willyswanter said:
Well I run the 2nd Mil you posted and I've drilled up to a 1.5" twist drill through 1" plate and it chugged right along. It will spin you around or break your arm before it stalls.
Click to expand...
Thats great to hear, what im looking for.

Now why did you pick it over the d-handle out of curiosity. Seems like you could put more pressure on with the d-handle and hold on easier. Am I wrong? Ive only used one a few times helping my grandfather whos an electrician, and that was drilling through studs for wire runs.
 
W
#19 ·
Well that would help if you had to make a 90* turn but what about all the other degrees? I can get that smaller one in some tight spots but you still have to deal with the big case of the D handle. I have a small 3/8" drive Milwaukee that has like a 70* angled head and that thing is the greatest drill I have ever bought. It fits anywhere and I use it all over my truck where a normal drill won't fit.

Image


http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/web...=284265&mainHeader=Tools&categoryId=189333&mainCategoryId=362&parentProd=281140
 
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