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Lq4 6.0 best truck cam for torque and little more hp???

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72K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  catman3516  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I'm in the middle of rebuilding the motor in my 03 2500hd and it's got the gasser 6.0. I'm wanting to see what your guys rs experiences are with cams for good torque and just a little more horse power then factory. And I'd like to keep the 317 heads since I've got them and already free flowing. So what's your opinions on what I should go wit?
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
Now I know some of these kits come with valve springs and retainers. And some come with just the cam by it's self. What should I go with? And this being a bigger lift cam do I really need to change the valve springs or can I leave them alone and put just a cam in and new lifters?
 
#5 ·
Now I know some of these kits come with valve springs and retainers. And some come with just the cam by it's self. What should I go with? And this being a bigger lift cam do I really need to change the valve springs or can I leave them alone and put just a cam in and new lifters?
Valve springs are a definate must. Floating valves and broken springs are in your future otherwise. Stock retainers are fine with that size. Just change the springs to LS6 springs. They are forgiving on cold starts and will be enough for that cam. Some would say change the pushrods, but with that size you at fine.
 
#6 ·
for what its worth I would just replace pushrods while its apart.
defanitly upgrade the springs.
 
#7 ·
for what its worth I would just replace pushrods while its apart.
defanitly upgrade the springs.
you pretty much HAVE to replace the pushrods. The cam base circle is/can be different and u have to measure for proper pushrod length.
 
#8 ·
Valve springs are a definate must. Floating valves and broken springs are in your future otherwise. Stock retainers are fine with that size. Just change the springs to LS6 springs. They are forgiving on cold starts and will be enough for that cam. Some would say change the pushrods, but with that size you at fine.
cam duration is not as important as valve lift when it comes to valve springs. He could get a 212/218 cam with .600" lift and those springs would be no good. IIRC theyre only good for .570 and that's maxing them out. If the cam is low lift, which im sure it is, then theyre fine.
 
#9 ·
for what its worth I would just replace pushrods while its apart.
defanitly upgrade the springs.
you pretty much HAVE to replace the pushrods. The cam base circle is/can be different and u have to measure for proper pushrod length.
cam duration is not as important as valve lift when it comes to valve springs. He could get a 212/218 cam with .600" lift and those springs would be no good. IIRC theyre only good for .570 and that's maxing them out. If the cam is low lift, which im sure it is, then theyre fine.
Wouldn't he be best off just getting a Cam kit? I know TSP has a Cam/push rods/valve springs for $620 for single springs.

Alot of 212/218 cams have sub .570 lift rates, so He would be alright with LS6 springs. But I do not know what lift specs would be best for torque
 
#10 ·
Wouldn't he be best off just getting a Cam kit? I know TSP has a Cam/push rods/valve springs for $620 for single springs.

Alot of 212/218 cams have sub .570 lift rates, so He would be alright with LS6 springs. But I do not know what lift specs would be best for torque
my point is, u cant assume :read: U gotta match parts correctly...specially when giving advice to someone who is clueless.
 
#11 ·
my point is, u cant assume :read: U gotta match parts correctly...specially when giving advice to someone who is clueless.
LOL - its clueless giving clueless advice that is the problem with this website.

The first fucking response - "212/218". And no supporting words to back it up. Never asked if the guy tows. Driving habits. ect ect. SMH.

To the OP: listen to 2005_Silverado. But also, because it will benefit you, learn about how a cam works and what different profiles do to your engines behavior.
 
#12 ·
LOL - its clueless giving clueless advice that is the problem with this website.

The first fucking response - "212/218". And no supporting words to back it up. Never asked if the guy tows. Driving habits. ect ect. SMH.

To the OP: listen to 2005_Silverado. But also, because it will benefit you, learn about how a cam works and what different profiles do to your engines behavior.
OP needs to give alot more details in what he wants out of the truck, and how he uses the truck. But 212/218 does get the ball rolling
 
#13 ·
I'm not clueless, I'm new to these ls motors and it's my first build on one. I been playing around with the 350s for to long and decided to step it up a notch. Now by looking on ebay for a 212/218 cam they come in a spring kit with new retainers and clips. If you all recommend replacing them then majority rules. And I was tryin to keep it under a .600 lift cam cause just figuring that would be a little big and would need to wurry about valve clearence and doing to much mods. Lifters are getting replaced along with springs which are included with the cam. And by lookin on ebay it's running 550$ to 650$ without lifters. And btw do any of you know what kind of numbers I could be getting with this cam? Including headers intake and roller rockers with the cam?
 
#14 ·
you pretty much HAVE to replace the pushrods. The cam base circle is/can be different and u have to measure for proper pushrod length.
I always measure mine, most people just say put 7.4 in..... I don't go off that, I rather measure and make sure they are correct for my setup.
from what he asked for the 212-218 would be a pretty good cam.
its a pretty mild cam that will give him what he needs
 
#15 ·
LOL - its clueless giving clueless advice that is the problem with this website.

The first fucking response - "212/218". And no supporting words to back it up. Never asked if the guy tows. Driving habits. ect ect. SMH.

To the OP: listen to 2005_Silverado. But also, because it will benefit you, learn about how a cam works and what different profiles do to your engines behavior.
are you saying I am clueless?
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
This is exactly the shit I was talking about. You post a picture of some shit with a link. What is this shit? How will it affect his drivability? How will engine react with this shit in it?

If all youre going to do is post "212/218" then don't. The only way this or any forum will be successful is if you share the reasoning WHY you think that's the best cam. Then I can hammer on you for not even asking how this guy drives, how he wants his truck to react, ect.

As far as the clueless comment, I CANT TELL IF YOURE CLUELESS OR NOT BECAUSE NONE OF YOU POST WITH AN SPECIFICITY! So I always assume the worst.
 
#18 ·
This is exactly the shit I was talking about. You post a picture of some shit with a link. What is this shit? How will it affect his drivability? How will engine react with this shit in it?

If all youre going to do is post "212/218" then don't. The only way this or any forum will be successful is if you share the reasoning WHY you think that's the best cam. Then I can hammer on you for not even asking how this guy drives, how he wants his truck to react, ect.

As far as the clueless comment, I CANT TELL IF YOURE CLUELESS OR NOT BECAUSE NONE OF YOU POST WITH AN SPECIFICITY! So I always assume the worst.
:BartRage:


OP, how much do you tow?
 
#21 ·
I'm wanting to see what your guys rs experiences are with cams for good torque and just a little more horse power then factory. So what's your opinions on what I should go wit?
Link for "good torque and just a little more horse power then factory" is then presented. :facepalm:
 
#22 ·
This is quickly going down tubes
 
#24 ·
This is exactly the shit I was talking about. You post a picture of some shit with a link. What is this shit? How will it affect his drivability? How will engine react with this shit in it?

If all youre going to do is post "212/218" then don't. The only way this or any forum will be successful is if you share the reasoning WHY you think that's the best cam. Then I can hammer on you for not even asking how this guy drives, how he wants his truck to react, ect.

As far as the clueless comment, I CANT TELL IF YOURE CLUELESS OR NOT BECAUSE NONE OF YOU POST WITH AN SPECIFICITY! So I always assume the worst.
if he doesn't know that he should do springs or pushrods he should keep his truck stock.
does your mom still feed you or are you able to do that on your own?
 
#25 ·
lets get this thread back on track and help the guy out.
he said he wanted a little more torque and horsepower for his truck.
the 212-218 will help with that and also allow for a stock converter.
if you get a set of springs that are good to .600 lift then that will allow you to grow if you decide you want to swap converters and change cams later on, you wont have to swap springs again if you go that route.
Pushrods are defanitly something you should change with any cam swap. I have ran 4 sets of TSP pushrods and never had a problem.
I like to measure pushrod length. you can buy a pushrod length checker fairly cheap from comp and its fairly easy to use. most will say to run a 7.4 but why guess when you can make sure you have the proper length.
that cam will be fine with towing, DD and also give you more hp and torque.
 
#26 ·
You can keep the stock verter. But I highly reccomend an aftermarket, larger stall converter. Will make a good difference.