[11MPG]

I'm wanting to see what your guys rs experiences are with cams for good torque and just a little more horse power then factory. So what's your opinions on what I should go wit?

Link for "good torque and just a little more horse power then factory" is then presented. :facepalm:

 

[00silvyON]

This is quickly going down tubes

 

[Machingeaneer]

This is quickly going down tubes

:imo

 

[GREENSIERRA]

This is exactly the shit I was talking about. You post a picture of some shit with a link. What is this shit? How will it affect his drivability? How will engine react with this shit in it?

If all youre going to do is post "212/218" then don't. The only way this or any forum will be successful is if you share the reasoning WHY you think that's the best cam. Then I can hammer on you for not even asking how this guy drives, how he wants his truck to react, ect.

As far as the clueless comment, I CANT TELL IF YOURE CLUELESS OR NOT BECAUSE NONE OF YOU POST WITH AN SPECIFICITY! So I always assume the worst.

if he doesn't know that he should do springs or pushrods he should keep his truck stock.
does your mom still feed you or are you able to do that on your own?

 

[GREENSIERRA]

lets get this thread back on track and help the guy out.
he said he wanted a little more torque and horsepower for his truck.
the 212-218 will help with that and also allow for a stock converter.
if you get a set of springs that are good to .600 lift then that will allow you to grow if you decide you want to swap converters and change cams later on, you wont have to swap springs again if you go that route.
Pushrods are defanitly something you should change with any cam swap. I have ran 4 sets of TSP pushrods and never had a problem.
I like to measure pushrod length. you can buy a pushrod length checker fairly cheap from comp and its fairly easy to use. most will say to run a 7.4 but why guess when you can make sure you have the proper length.
that cam will be fine with towing, DD and also give you more hp and torque.

 

[00silvyON]

You can keep the stock verter. But I highly reccomend an aftermarket, larger stall converter. Will make a good difference.

 

[11MPG]

You can keep the stock verter. But I highly reccomend an aftermarket, larger stall converter. Will make a good difference.

x2

For now you can make it work fine, but a new verter in the 2,800 to 3,200 range will make it a lot of fun. If you tow though with a big stall a trans cooler like a Tru Cool 40k is highly recommended.

 

[DirtMafia]

216/220



















:insertbartrage:












114 LSA .525/.532
35"s, 4.10s,LS6 springs, BTR pushrods, Stock 317's, multipurpose use, stock converter.

Granted its more of a midrange cam. I tow my mazda quite often and it does just fine (~4-5Klbs). I did however have to go to bigger injectors, you may not have to do this with a smaller cam.http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1086&sb=2

Driveability wise, it's a pig down low but I attribute most of that to the stock converter, 4.10's, big dumb wheels and tires and some added weight being the HD platform. Anywhere from 4000-6200RPM it pulls like a bat out of hell though. If I had to do it over again I would probably stay a bit smaller on the cam or run a higher stall.

Good Luck OP. Playing with cams is fun.

 

[catman3516]

I installed a 212/216 comp on a 115lsa in my 6.0 I really like how it pulls all the to 5500rpms. I have blue LS6 springs,LT headers,air intake,good exhaust,and a BB tune. 1500hd,6.0,4l80e,stock 2400rpm verter,3.73gears. pulls good,loads of torque loaded or unloaded. It can roast my lt265/75-16 on my truck with no problems. pulls my 22ft 5th wheel lowboy with a 3000 lbs engine no problems flat ground or hills. my scanner says 38% load at 70mph, great torque. I did lose 1 mpg,but its a nice trade off for the instant power and response. not bad for a 5600lbs truck.