hey guys. i have a 06 crew cab. i need to narrow the rear end 1 3/4" on each side. its at a machine shop rite now, but he called me n said he cant do it. his lathe isnt big enough. cant find anyone with one big enough either. so im thinkin of bringin it to a shop down the road that has a big band saw n cut it. im also gonna order new axels. so im thinkin when i get the housing cut slide a pipe with the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the housing in and tack it all in place. once i get the axels check for any binding and then weld her up. so what do u guys think about that idea. i have talked to a few people who has done it this way n they said it's worked for them.
laid 06
You can undo the axle shafts from the pumpkin then cut 1.75" off the end going into the pumpkin and reattach to the pumpkin, but if you're planning on using the factory leafspring mounts, this isn't a good way to go. I'm guessing you're meaning use a sleeve to keep the tube straight when you weld the end back on? I cut mine between the leaf spring mount and the wheel, cut out 1.5", used a sleeve inside to keep the tube straight when I welded it back together.
you can also look for places that do rock crawlers. Thats what my buddy does. Me and him did mine at his shop.
Doesn't the actual tube itself slide in to the pumpkin. Cutting the tube off flush with the pumpkin then trim to give you the width you need. Cut the rest of the tube out of the pumpkin. Slide the rest back in. Have them fully weld the tubes back in. Yes you have to move spring perches and shock tabs. When you weld on tubes there is always a chance of distortion. I'd find a place to cut it off from the wheel end.
It does slide into the pumpkin but, factory tubes arent fully welded around to the pumpkin. So why would you do it to the shortened tube? You also dont cut it flush with the pumpkin.
You get the pins, that hold the tube, out.
Then you pull the tube out. cut the amount you want off (1" or less).
Then you slide the tube back in and make the end accept the factory mounting style.
The only thing that holds this up, is that the factory axle tubes diameter are smaller where it goes into the pumpkin compared to at the wheel. You only have an 1" or so, on each side, to cut off there. Compared to welding, this way has virtually no heat. he couldn't do it this way anyway, since he wants 1.75" on each side.
You run a bigger risk distorting the tubes, welding them back together after you cut a section out. As long as you get a good solid jig and you know what you're doing or are fully confident the guy your paying does,then he'll be okay
Doing it at the pumpkin gives you an advantage in one situation. If you are getting rid of the perches and shock mounts to do a custom link setup.
Put a 14 bolt in it. 
I swapped in a 14 bolt SF in my 2000 and the axle was much narrower! I have to run 2" wheel spacers on each side to make the wheels and tires sit like stock.
I swapped in a 14 bolt SF in my 2000 and the axle was much narrower! I have to run 2" wheel spacers on each side to make the wheels and tires sit like stock.-
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