ok so im doing a cam swap this weekend and have to do a dod delete and im just goin to pull the headds off clean em up have them surfaced and replace all interenals, im goin to leave the motor in the truck anyone have a link or how to on doing this. just wanna make sure i do it right the first time. any help or input will be greatly appreciated.
09chevy40$
removing heads from 5.3
2 reading
u need new bolts and an angle gauge...these bolts are not torque to specific ft lbs...theyre torqued to specific degrees, thats why u need the angle gauge.
follow this sequence to torque down, reverse for removal
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edit: you will also want to clean out the threads in the block because GM uses a thread locker. You can cut a flute into one of the oem bolts and run it through the hole or you can get the right tool from ARP. Theyre the only ones who make the thread cleaner (not a tap or a chaser) for the specific (aka rare) bolt size n pitch. Ive got the lil mf and its expensive.
follow this sequence to torque down, reverse for removal
edit: you will also want to clean out the threads in the block because GM uses a thread locker. You can cut a flute into one of the oem bolts and run it through the hole or you can get the right tool from ARP. Theyre the only ones who make the thread cleaner (not a tap or a chaser) for the specific (aka rare) bolt size n pitch. Ive got the lil mf and its expensive.
take one of the old bolts you take out, take an angle grinder and make 2 slots on each side of the bolt to help clean out the holes.
you also don't need a angle guage. just torque to the first spec and then draw a straight line on the head of the bolt and use that to do your degrees.
just make sure that your threads are clean. take the time to MAKE SURE.
its not hard to do at all
you also don't need a angle guage. just torque to the first spec and then draw a straight line on the head of the bolt and use that to do your degrees.
just make sure that your threads are clean. take the time to MAKE SURE.
its not hard to do at all
Somebody explain this degree shit to me. All I did when I put my heads on was torque new bolts in order and to spec...
stock head bolts are torque to yield. it was something like torque it to a certain number, then 90* twice and then 45 or something like that. don't really remember but its online. with the ARPs you have to torque them.
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