V.1.0
Add on advice or correct me on what needs editing. If you want to measure stuff on your lift and provide it that would make this article THAT much more accurate....
Got questions about lifting your 2007-2013 half ton truck? Read this first!
LEVELING KITS
Generally speaking, most NNBS trucks have between 2-2.25 inches of factory “rake”. Leveling kits come as either top or bottom coilover spacers, or a combination of both. Top spacers net lift equal to their thickness (1/2” spacer = 1/2” lift). Bottom spacer give lift double the size of the spacer, so a 1 inch spacer gives 2 inches of lift. As a general rule of thumb, do not run more than a 2.5” leveling kit without upgrading other components to avoid bad front suspension angles and accelerated wear on front end parts. If you wish to run a 3”+ leveling kit, at a minimum upgrade to aftermarket UCAs and if 4WD, differential drops as well. Bilstein makes leveling struts, these can be set at 0, 0.59, 1.18, and 1.77” of lift. These can be stacked with leveling kits, but most are reporting the struts giving more lift than advertised at those settings, so you might want to run the setup at a quarter inch lower than you want.
Some companies offer “bigger” leveling kits which do not require subframe drop, and therefore no cutting on 4WD models. The Rough Country 3.5, Fabtech/Readylift/FTS 4” are all basically the same. They all use a leveling spacer with upgraded UCAs and small 1.5” differential drops. Although the UCAs and CVs (differential) are taken care of, the LCA and the tie rods are not given any kind of relief. This causes accelerated wear on those parts. Some never report problems, others have multiple problems frequently so it’s a toss-up if you’ll like or dislike these style kits. An alternative is to run these kits with a smaller leveling spacer (like a 3”) to keep the excessive wear down but still give you a little more room than a normal leveling kit.
SPINDLES
Some companies make lift spindles. THESE WILL ONLY FIT 2WD TRUCKS. Most are between the 3 and 4” range. When installed, these will give you the same suspension angles as factory, meaning you can add a leveling kit onto it. Use the same rules as above when adding on a leveling kit. With the exception of CST spindles, these spindles will increase your front track width by 1.5-2”, therefore some factory rims will require wheel spacers if you want to run them. Consult with the appropriate manufacturer.
SPINDLETECH 3" SPINDLES
- They DO work with factory 17" wheel with zero spacers needed
- 285/70/17's fit with a very slight rub on the inner fender (no metal trimming needed) The primary reason they rub is because of the increase in track width. Not for lack of fender space
- When used with a 2" RC level (lower puck) it took "maximum adjustments" on the UCA cam-plates to come within spec on the alignment rack. So I'm confident in saying that I would NOT attempt to go higher than 5" total without purchasing a legit lift kit. Otherwise your front end will hate you.
- This kit requires slight trimming of the brake-dust shield. Nothing major.
- Also, your brake lines and ABS lines will need relocation brackets unless your content with zip-tying them to the bottom of your UCA.
LIFT KITS
READ: If your truck is 4WD and you go with a subframe kit like those listed below you MUST cut your frame. There is no such thing as 100% bolt on for 4WD trucks.
Lift kits are either knuckle style or full drop. Knuckle means that your UCAs and steering remain in the factory position, so larger spindles give you lift. These kits are easier to install, but generally increase the track width of the front of the vehicle by 1.5-2”. Also some will require wheel spacers if you want to run factory wheels. Full Drop lifts drop literally everything in the front suspension, including UCAs and the steering components. This makes them more difficult to install. Some older full drop kits wouldn’t hold alignments as well as their knuckle counterparts. Since factory spindles are retained in these lifts, you can run any normal factory wheel without needing wheel spacers. Since only FTS and Bulletproof make full drop kits for these trucks, unless specified all information pertains to knuckle style. I break knuckle lifts down into two categories; true and stretched. True lifts drop the differential the same distance as the LCAs, giving you completely flat suspension geometry when first installed. Stretched lifts do not drop the differential the full distance; usually it is an inch or so of difference. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it gives you fewer options for adjusting your lift.
BULLETPROOF SUSPENSION
• 8” full drop true lift kit. Bulletproof uses a one-piece subframe (meaning the front and rear crossmembers are connected into one cage) and is a reputable company, but is pretty pricey so you don’t see many of these kits. But they are outstanding quality and the only “full drop” style kit available in 8”.
BDS/ZONE OFF ROAD
• 4.5” true lift kit. This is a “true” lift kit; the LCA dropdowns match the differential drops. Since it uses replacement struts, if you wish to add-on to the lift you can add an upper or lower strut spacer. I wouldn’t add more than 2” to this kit.
• 6.5” stretched lift kit. The only difference in the front components of this kit is longer struts; it is a stretched version of the 4.5” kit. I personally wouldn’t try adding any kind of a leveling spacer to this kit.
CST SUSPENSION
• 4” true lift kit. Like Bulletproof and Cognito, CST is top-tier in quality and sturdiness, but like them, are also some of the most expensive kits on the market. Like Rancho and Bulletproof, CST uses a one-piece subframe. The 4” kit can be adjusted 2” with bottom spacers. One unique thing about CST is they fabricate their spindles so that your track width isn’t increased.
• 8” true lift kit. Like Bulletproof and Cognito, CST is top-tier in quality and sturdiness, but like them, is also some of the most expensive kits. Like Rancho and Bulletproof, CST uses a one-piece subframe. The 8” kit can be adjusted 2” with either upper or bottom spacers. One unique thing about CST is they fabricate their spindles so that your track width isn’t increased.
COGNITO MOTORSPORTS
• 7” true lift kit. These kits come with Bilstein 7-9 adjustable struts. Cognito is considered one the sturdiest kits on the market, but some of the most expensive as well.
• 10” true lift kit. These kits come with Bilstein 10-12 adjustable struts. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
FABTECH
• 6” true lift kit. Advertised as a 6” kit, this kit is actually a 7.5-8” lift kit. The differential is dropped the entire distance, so you can safely add on 2 inches without having to upgrade anything else. The Fabtech uses a lower strut extension, so you would need an upper strut spacer to add on. However the Fabtech strut extension is wildly unpopular, so many people use the Bilstein 7-9 adjustable struts (available from FTS or Cognito) instead.
FULL THROTTLE SUSPENSION
• 7” true lift kit. I believe drops measure around 7.5”, but again, since everything is dropped full, you can safely add on about 2 inches to it. Like the Fabtech, it uses a lower strut replacement so if you want to add a leveling spacer look into an upper one. Also like Fabtech, the extension is unpopular, so most look into the Bilstein 7-9 struts.
• 10” full drop true lift kit. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
• 10” true lift kit. Brand new, don’t know much about it. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
• 15” full drop true lift kit. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
MCGAUGHY’S SUSPENSION
• 7” true lift kit. This kit is basically a carbon copy of the fabtech kit, so read up on the fabtech info. McGaughy’s does make their own 7-9 adjustable struts which are copies of the Bilsteins and are available with purchase.
PRO COMP
• 6” stretched lift kit. I believe the LCA drop downs on this lift are just short of 6” on this kit, and like other similar kits, differential drops are in the neighborhood of 5 inches. Pro Comp uses an upper strut spacer, so if you want to add on to the lift, a lower spacer is your best bet. I wouldn’t add more than a ½” (1” lift) spacer to this kit.
RANCHO
• 4” stretched lift kit. Although advertised as 4”, the LCA dropdowns measure 5.25” on this kit, so installed it gives between 5.5-6 inches of lift. Like Zone, it uses replacement struts so you can use upper or lower leveling spacers. I think the differential drops measure about 4-5 inches, so you have some room if you want to adjust it. Rancho uses a one-piece subframe on their lift.
ROUGH COUNTRY
• 5” true lift kit. Everything is dropped a full 5 inches. RCX uses an upper strut spacer, so if you want to add a lower spacer is your best bet. You can safely add up to 2” onto this kit.
• 7.5” stretched lift kit. This kit is the same (up front) as the 5 but it has 7.5” upper strut spacers instead. Do not try to add anything onto this kit. Because this kit requires you to cut the droop stops off, it is one of the few highly UNRECOMMENDED lifts by GMFS members.
SUPERLIFT
• 6” stretched lift kit. LCA drops measure 5.75”. and differential drops are in the neighborhood of 5 inches. The basic Superlift also uses an upper strut spacer, so if you want to add on to the lift, a lower spacer is your best bet. I wouldn’t add more than a ½” (1” lift) spacer to this kit.
• 8” true lift kit. I’ve never seen anyone running this kit so don’t have any real info, but it appears to be similar to the Fabtech/McGaughys lifts.
Add on advice or correct me on what needs editing. If you want to measure stuff on your lift and provide it that would make this article THAT much more accurate....
Got questions about lifting your 2007-2013 half ton truck? Read this first!
LEVELING KITS
Generally speaking, most NNBS trucks have between 2-2.25 inches of factory “rake”. Leveling kits come as either top or bottom coilover spacers, or a combination of both. Top spacers net lift equal to their thickness (1/2” spacer = 1/2” lift). Bottom spacer give lift double the size of the spacer, so a 1 inch spacer gives 2 inches of lift. As a general rule of thumb, do not run more than a 2.5” leveling kit without upgrading other components to avoid bad front suspension angles and accelerated wear on front end parts. If you wish to run a 3”+ leveling kit, at a minimum upgrade to aftermarket UCAs and if 4WD, differential drops as well. Bilstein makes leveling struts, these can be set at 0, 0.59, 1.18, and 1.77” of lift. These can be stacked with leveling kits, but most are reporting the struts giving more lift than advertised at those settings, so you might want to run the setup at a quarter inch lower than you want.
Some companies offer “bigger” leveling kits which do not require subframe drop, and therefore no cutting on 4WD models. The Rough Country 3.5, Fabtech/Readylift/FTS 4” are all basically the same. They all use a leveling spacer with upgraded UCAs and small 1.5” differential drops. Although the UCAs and CVs (differential) are taken care of, the LCA and the tie rods are not given any kind of relief. This causes accelerated wear on those parts. Some never report problems, others have multiple problems frequently so it’s a toss-up if you’ll like or dislike these style kits. An alternative is to run these kits with a smaller leveling spacer (like a 3”) to keep the excessive wear down but still give you a little more room than a normal leveling kit.
SPINDLES
Some companies make lift spindles. THESE WILL ONLY FIT 2WD TRUCKS. Most are between the 3 and 4” range. When installed, these will give you the same suspension angles as factory, meaning you can add a leveling kit onto it. Use the same rules as above when adding on a leveling kit. With the exception of CST spindles, these spindles will increase your front track width by 1.5-2”, therefore some factory rims will require wheel spacers if you want to run them. Consult with the appropriate manufacturer.
SPINDLETECH 3" SPINDLES
- They DO work with factory 17" wheel with zero spacers needed
- 285/70/17's fit with a very slight rub on the inner fender (no metal trimming needed) The primary reason they rub is because of the increase in track width. Not for lack of fender space
- When used with a 2" RC level (lower puck) it took "maximum adjustments" on the UCA cam-plates to come within spec on the alignment rack. So I'm confident in saying that I would NOT attempt to go higher than 5" total without purchasing a legit lift kit. Otherwise your front end will hate you.
- This kit requires slight trimming of the brake-dust shield. Nothing major.
- Also, your brake lines and ABS lines will need relocation brackets unless your content with zip-tying them to the bottom of your UCA.
LIFT KITS
READ: If your truck is 4WD and you go with a subframe kit like those listed below you MUST cut your frame. There is no such thing as 100% bolt on for 4WD trucks.
Lift kits are either knuckle style or full drop. Knuckle means that your UCAs and steering remain in the factory position, so larger spindles give you lift. These kits are easier to install, but generally increase the track width of the front of the vehicle by 1.5-2”. Also some will require wheel spacers if you want to run factory wheels. Full Drop lifts drop literally everything in the front suspension, including UCAs and the steering components. This makes them more difficult to install. Some older full drop kits wouldn’t hold alignments as well as their knuckle counterparts. Since factory spindles are retained in these lifts, you can run any normal factory wheel without needing wheel spacers. Since only FTS and Bulletproof make full drop kits for these trucks, unless specified all information pertains to knuckle style. I break knuckle lifts down into two categories; true and stretched. True lifts drop the differential the same distance as the LCAs, giving you completely flat suspension geometry when first installed. Stretched lifts do not drop the differential the full distance; usually it is an inch or so of difference. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it gives you fewer options for adjusting your lift.
BULLETPROOF SUSPENSION
• 8” full drop true lift kit. Bulletproof uses a one-piece subframe (meaning the front and rear crossmembers are connected into one cage) and is a reputable company, but is pretty pricey so you don’t see many of these kits. But they are outstanding quality and the only “full drop” style kit available in 8”.
BDS/ZONE OFF ROAD
• 4.5” true lift kit. This is a “true” lift kit; the LCA dropdowns match the differential drops. Since it uses replacement struts, if you wish to add-on to the lift you can add an upper or lower strut spacer. I wouldn’t add more than 2” to this kit.
• 6.5” stretched lift kit. The only difference in the front components of this kit is longer struts; it is a stretched version of the 4.5” kit. I personally wouldn’t try adding any kind of a leveling spacer to this kit.
CST SUSPENSION
• 4” true lift kit. Like Bulletproof and Cognito, CST is top-tier in quality and sturdiness, but like them, are also some of the most expensive kits on the market. Like Rancho and Bulletproof, CST uses a one-piece subframe. The 4” kit can be adjusted 2” with bottom spacers. One unique thing about CST is they fabricate their spindles so that your track width isn’t increased.
• 8” true lift kit. Like Bulletproof and Cognito, CST is top-tier in quality and sturdiness, but like them, is also some of the most expensive kits. Like Rancho and Bulletproof, CST uses a one-piece subframe. The 8” kit can be adjusted 2” with either upper or bottom spacers. One unique thing about CST is they fabricate their spindles so that your track width isn’t increased.
COGNITO MOTORSPORTS
• 7” true lift kit. These kits come with Bilstein 7-9 adjustable struts. Cognito is considered one the sturdiest kits on the market, but some of the most expensive as well.
• 10” true lift kit. These kits come with Bilstein 10-12 adjustable struts. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
FABTECH
• 6” true lift kit. Advertised as a 6” kit, this kit is actually a 7.5-8” lift kit. The differential is dropped the entire distance, so you can safely add on 2 inches without having to upgrade anything else. The Fabtech uses a lower strut extension, so you would need an upper strut spacer to add on. However the Fabtech strut extension is wildly unpopular, so many people use the Bilstein 7-9 adjustable struts (available from FTS or Cognito) instead.
FULL THROTTLE SUSPENSION
• 7” true lift kit. I believe drops measure around 7.5”, but again, since everything is dropped full, you can safely add on about 2 inches to it. Like the Fabtech, it uses a lower strut replacement so if you want to add a leveling spacer look into an upper one. Also like Fabtech, the extension is unpopular, so most look into the Bilstein 7-9 struts.
• 10” full drop true lift kit. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
• 10” true lift kit. Brand new, don’t know much about it. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
• 15” full drop true lift kit. If you have to read this article for legitimate information, you can’t afford it and probably shouldn’t be buying it or installing it.
MCGAUGHY’S SUSPENSION
• 7” true lift kit. This kit is basically a carbon copy of the fabtech kit, so read up on the fabtech info. McGaughy’s does make their own 7-9 adjustable struts which are copies of the Bilsteins and are available with purchase.
PRO COMP
• 6” stretched lift kit. I believe the LCA drop downs on this lift are just short of 6” on this kit, and like other similar kits, differential drops are in the neighborhood of 5 inches. Pro Comp uses an upper strut spacer, so if you want to add on to the lift, a lower spacer is your best bet. I wouldn’t add more than a ½” (1” lift) spacer to this kit.
RANCHO
• 4” stretched lift kit. Although advertised as 4”, the LCA dropdowns measure 5.25” on this kit, so installed it gives between 5.5-6 inches of lift. Like Zone, it uses replacement struts so you can use upper or lower leveling spacers. I think the differential drops measure about 4-5 inches, so you have some room if you want to adjust it. Rancho uses a one-piece subframe on their lift.
ROUGH COUNTRY
• 5” true lift kit. Everything is dropped a full 5 inches. RCX uses an upper strut spacer, so if you want to add a lower spacer is your best bet. You can safely add up to 2” onto this kit.
• 7.5” stretched lift kit. This kit is the same (up front) as the 5 but it has 7.5” upper strut spacers instead. Do not try to add anything onto this kit. Because this kit requires you to cut the droop stops off, it is one of the few highly UNRECOMMENDED lifts by GMFS members.
SUPERLIFT
• 6” stretched lift kit. LCA drops measure 5.75”. and differential drops are in the neighborhood of 5 inches. The basic Superlift also uses an upper strut spacer, so if you want to add on to the lift, a lower spacer is your best bet. I wouldn’t add more than a ½” (1” lift) spacer to this kit.
• 8” true lift kit. I’ve never seen anyone running this kit so don’t have any real info, but it appears to be similar to the Fabtech/McGaughys lifts.
